So I got my bravada up and running, changed out the starter, distributor cap and rotor to get rid of the skip, and repaired the ac. I figured the cap and rotor were also the cause of my wet start issue....wrong. it started fine after the 4 hour rain we had, going down the interstate at 65 it lurches like it's gonna cut off, and the both gauges speedometer and tach, start speeding up with no increase in vehicle speed or engine speed. the local mechanic said it's the ignition switch, he mentioned something about the moisture creating resistance. does this sound likely to you guys? keep in mind it didn't cut off, it did it about 5 or 6 times and then quit acting up, til the next morning where it turned over fine but never started. also when the gauges went crazy the airbag light went off and the next morning when it wouldn't start the voltometer was reading like the battery was dead, which it wasn't, cause it was turning the engine over fast. sorry for the book and thanks for any help!



it's a 97 bravada thanks!

 

I wouldn't rule out the ignition switch. You can test the outputs from the ignition switch for intermittent drop outs.

 

well I took it to the local mechanic near me that I know pretty good and he changed it out and I haven't had a problem from it since....now to tackle my driver's door hinge..... It's wallowed out pretty good...the first body shop told me they would have to weld the hole shut and then redrill holes and new pins and bushings. they quoted me $250. The next body shop told me that was ridiculous and that all it would need is an oversized bushing and that would run me only 50 bucks. Would using an oversized bushing make anything worse? I understand that the first shop was probly the best solution...but I am low on funds. thanks for any advice!

 

I had to do this to the doors on my 2000 2dr Blazer. I welded up only the worn side of the holes, sprayed some machinist blue on the hinge and used an old bushing to scribe a line. I used a die grinder to grind up close to the line. Ran a size under drill bit through to get it back to round, then a reamer to resize the holes.
Pay attention to the size of the bushings and there location. There are two different size bushings on each hinge and don't run in the same dirrection from top hinge to bottom hinge. Drill and ream the larger one first then the smaller one.
I work in a machine shop and have access to all the good tools, but if you have a welder, good drill, and a round file you can do it just the same.
I wouldn't weld up the entire hole, just the worn side. Unless your really good, it's a gamble to get the position correct.
My doors line up great and shut as smooth as silk. It took me 1 1/5 hours to do the first door then just 1/2 hour on the other. I didn't pay attention to the size and location and had to do it twice the first time.
As far as an oversized bushing, it's quicker and easier. But there's not a whole lot of metal to begin with let alone drilling out more.
$250 sounds a bit high, but then again it's all about you skills, patience, or wallet!
You won't believe how quiet the ride is once you fix the hinges.
Good luck.

 

I had the guy use an oversized bushing..fixed my problem.....and then the next day....my radiator starts blowing antifreeze out the sides where it's plastic...so I had to swap it out and now all is good....until the next thing breaks which knowing my luck won't be long.