Intake manifold gasket
#1
I am getting ready to tackle the intake manifold gaskets on my 2002 Blazer. Three good choices look like Fel Pro Perma Dry Plus (MS98002T), AC Delco redesign (89017866), Victor Reiz (M1S161668). Which do you suggest?
Thanks.
Thanks.
#3
Provided the AC Delco gasket has been upgraded from the original plastic frame to a metal frame, it should work every bit as good as the Fel-Pro. I haven't ever seen anyone use a Victor Reiz brand gasket here.
The success of a LIM gasket replacement depends a lot on the surface finish at the sealing surfaces (especially around the water jackets where they typically pit) and the torque applied to the LIM retaining bolts. Poor surface finish and/or improper bolt torque can often put you right back where you started.
The success of a LIM gasket replacement depends a lot on the surface finish at the sealing surfaces (especially around the water jackets where they typically pit) and the torque applied to the LIM retaining bolts. Poor surface finish and/or improper bolt torque can often put you right back where you started.
#4
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North GA, USA
Posts: 325

The AC/Delco number you gave was for lower gaskets only. The Felpro and Victor reinz numbers were for a full set, lower and upper plenum.
I've never had issues with Felpro gaskets. I often order Felpro gaskets with parts that come "gasket included" because I'd rather be sure I'm using a good gasket. I've had enough failures of the included gaskets with, for example, water pumps and thermostats that I just throw away the included gasket and put a Felpro on.
Replace the lower manifold bolts. The GM Part # for the bolts is 12550027, most parts sources can cross reference that. I have access to an excellent hardware store, so I rarely use a kit from the parts store. It looks like those bolts are 5/16-18 with a smooth flanged head. If you get exactly the same style bolt with the exact same length in stainless steel hardware at a good hardware store, you should be fine. I don't see $4 or $5 value getting a "genuine" bolt of unknown grade, probably not stainless steel, with loctite pre-applied when I can get known hardware for <$2 per bolt. If you really want to spend big bucks, go for ARP bolts, not the others. The ARP sets will work fine. For ARP stainless bolts, the ARP part numbers are 434-2002 for 6 point heads, and 434-2102 for 12 point heads.
Torque and tightening order is critical on those bolts. They have to be tightened in three steps, tightening all bolts in the proper sequence to 26 inch pounds, then tightening them all to 106 inch pounds, then a final tightening to 132 inch pounds. Overtightening, tightening them in the wrong order, or going straight to the full torque can all lead to leaks. Contrary to Internet lore, the bolts don't actually bottom out in the heads. It is possible to overtighten them and crush/pinch the gasket to the point where it leaks.
Oh, and I generally use silver (aluminum) anti-seize on intake manifold bolts. Some folks use loctite instead. I would not install them dry.
I've never had issues with Felpro gaskets. I often order Felpro gaskets with parts that come "gasket included" because I'd rather be sure I'm using a good gasket. I've had enough failures of the included gaskets with, for example, water pumps and thermostats that I just throw away the included gasket and put a Felpro on.
Replace the lower manifold bolts. The GM Part # for the bolts is 12550027, most parts sources can cross reference that. I have access to an excellent hardware store, so I rarely use a kit from the parts store. It looks like those bolts are 5/16-18 with a smooth flanged head. If you get exactly the same style bolt with the exact same length in stainless steel hardware at a good hardware store, you should be fine. I don't see $4 or $5 value getting a "genuine" bolt of unknown grade, probably not stainless steel, with loctite pre-applied when I can get known hardware for <$2 per bolt. If you really want to spend big bucks, go for ARP bolts, not the others. The ARP sets will work fine. For ARP stainless bolts, the ARP part numbers are 434-2002 for 6 point heads, and 434-2102 for 12 point heads.
Torque and tightening order is critical on those bolts. They have to be tightened in three steps, tightening all bolts in the proper sequence to 26 inch pounds, then tightening them all to 106 inch pounds, then a final tightening to 132 inch pounds. Overtightening, tightening them in the wrong order, or going straight to the full torque can all lead to leaks. Contrary to Internet lore, the bolts don't actually bottom out in the heads. It is possible to overtighten them and crush/pinch the gasket to the point where it leaks.
Oh, and I generally use silver (aluminum) anti-seize on intake manifold bolts. Some folks use loctite instead. I would not install them dry.
Last edited by Racer_X; 05-14-2016 at 10:29 AM.
#5
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: North GA, USA
Posts: 325

I also use Victor Reinz gaskets, but usually only on European cars. I've never had any issues with their gaskets either when I've used them on VW, Volvo and Mercedes Benz engines.
Usually Victor Reinz is a little more expensive than Felpro, especially for US makes. I guess I get Felpro for US cars because they are "good enough" and I don't see any value in paying more for the Victor Reinz branding.
Usually Victor Reinz is a little more expensive than Felpro, especially for US makes. I guess I get Felpro for US cars because they are "good enough" and I don't see any value in paying more for the Victor Reinz branding.
#6
Holy cow racer, simple questions just need simple answers... Go with the felpro gasket set. No need for new bolts, just clean the threads and run a tap through the heads. Use sealer on the threads not loctite... Yes, as others have said the torque sequence is very important...
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