Hi Guys,

Problem: 1996 T10 Blazer won't start, tries to, but just can't get over the hump (battery is new, ignition and electrics have been eliminated from the starting problem, or could it be a bad sensor? - which one?). Was running OK all winter, then just stopped starting 2 days ago. Was starting to get a little balky lately, but always got going, until now. Will run with starter fluid or gas poured in but fires then quits when fluid runs out.

What I've done so far: Fuel pump whirrs up fine, good pressure to fuel Schraeder valve in engine compartment. Tried to replace filter (gave up as I broke a flare wrench trying to get it loose, may try again later, but I don't suspect the filter). Bit the bullet and removed the intake plenum to get to the fuel injectors. The guy who designed the gas line connections against the distributor and up against the fire wall should be strung up by his cohones. A crowfoot wrench finally got the job done, with much use of very eloquent language included. Anyway, I cleaned the plenum, fuel injectors (new ones are $65.00 each..brutal), replaced the fuel pressure regulator, spray cleaned the intake manifold best I could, cleaned the poppet nozzle holes, etc...I'm putting it all back together again and HERES the question: what is the correct sequence of O-rings and spacers to re-connect the fuel lines back to the top of the fuel injector body? I think I have it right but would like to get a double check if anybody knows for sure. I tried to be real careful when I pulled the pipes out but they came out suddenly (easier that I expected) and an O-ring, plastic spacer and a metal washer fell off the pipes before I got a good visual on the order of sequence. Fortunately the pipes are different sizes so the O-ring, spacer and washer aren't hard to figure out where they go, but I'm more interested in HOW they go. Since this is a GAS line connection, I'd rather be safe that sorry. Does anybody know the correct placement sequence? I can't seem to find a good visual reference anywhere. Thanks for the help.

 

I probably should actually measure the fuel pressure at the Schraeder valve versus just assuming that good pressure at the Schraeder is "adequate". I just read through a lot of the other hard starting problems and now know that 60PSI is needed to get the Blazer over the starting hump, then a drop down to approx 50 psi to keep her running is about normal. I've learned that I MOST LIKELY am looking at a fuel pump problem as opposed to something else, but at least I now have a nice & clean intake system. Live and learn.

I have read some posts regarding dropping the tank (a pain in the ---) AND FLUSHING IT OUT CLEAN, so I'll take that advice to heart. Is there a consensus of opinion regarding new fuel pump brand that works best. OEM (AC Delco or Delphi) or other? Just Curious. Thanks.

 

On the placement of the o-rings, washer, & spacer, I do believe that the viton (yellow) o-ring goes in first, then the stainless washer, then the EPDM (black/gray), then the plastic spacer. You'll want to use some clean motor oil to lubricate the orings. They will be installed into the fuel metering body. Then lubricate the fuel lines with clean motor oil and carefully install them into the fuel metering body.

 

Just reverse the o-rings, black at the bottom, stainless steel spacer, yellow o-ring, then the black plastic spacer.

 

Thanks for the info. I had it right (O-rings, spacers, washers) and I put the whole system back together this evening. Tried to re-start and after a few tries, she fired right up. Amazing what a clean intake plenum will do, throttle response is noticably better, she idles smoother, and she feels more powerful. Giddyup!

I bought a fuel pressure gauge and checked pressure with key on, engine off = 58 psi. I believe this tells me my filter is OK and the pump is still doing its job. We'll see how she behaves (starts) over the next couple of days.

I do have a "Check Engine" light on now, but I think that's because the engine has to re-learn all it's parameters because of the "clean" system. I think I read somewhere that you need to drive about 50 miles or so before the ECM will reset the light, IF everything is OK, otherwise you may have a real problem. Either way, I have a plug-in chip that attaches to the OBD port that I can use to force the "check engine" light to reset. If there is a real problem the ECM will turn it back on after a few driving cycles. We'll see.

 

Yeah, Thanks for correcting me Korey, I couldnt remember the correct order. Im surprised I remembered the colors! LOL. I replaced all of the orings in mine quite a while ago.

 

Well, I went out last night before bed and started up the Blazer. Check Engine light went on, then went off. Looks like the ECM is happy. Blazer also started up this morning with no problems (although it still doesn't quite start up as "strongly" as I would like it to). There still appears to be a very slight hesitation before she kicks in. Maybe it's just me, but I think it's taking an extra one or two "grinds" before she catches and goes. I'll be keeping my eye on it, now that my son NEEDS the car (going for his license very soon, pray for me!).

Thanks for the input, I appreciate it.

 

In relation to these spacers I have a question (sorry to steal thread). I just did the FPR and put back together with new o-rings and spacers. I put the black in first, then the washer, then the yellow one. Fuel leaks slowly form these holes now with retainer bolted down good. my questions is the black spacers that go in. Do they stick out a little or are they in the hole completly. When i took them out i seem to remember them in all the way now they stick out about 2mm.I have to replace the intake gasket this wekend so im going to try again. thsi is a second car thank god btu i want this back on the road asap and the leak is frustrating me big time. Gracias

 

Holy old thread... You have a current thread where you have asked this question.