It does not sound like the oil pressure switch cut-off since the truck will run after a jump. I still think it could be a wire connection that is not making proper connection and that would relate to the starter...even though they might look good on the outside corrosion can eat at battery cable wires up the line from years of use...try MnHawks idea of the jumper cable to the starter solenoid. That would eliminate one item from your list of possibles. Since you replaced the starter then you would think that the solenoid was new but it might not be and could be a possible cause. Some starters come as rebuilt and from what I have read some rebuilders of GM solenoids just flip the terminal to make better contact, it could be possible that the "new" part is not up to the task. I had a Nissan truck rebuilt and the truck had a hard time starting, even though there was a factory starter and it worked after I had it rebuilt it needed a new one because the solenoid failed after a few starts on the rebuilt engine (slightly more compression) so I replaced with a heavier duty Bosch type and never had a problem starting again...so it could be that a part of the "new" starter is not handling the job...And I have read on forums that the fuel pump connector if loose enough could cause a problem similar to this....

 

I have not yet been able to check the fuel pressure (no tools) but, with the boost there is a considerable difference with the fuel pump reaction to prime.ie. More frequently. The starter is a brand new Duralast Gold (not rebuilt) would that say that the solenoid was also new? I'm gonna try the battery thing and see what I get. Thanks agian for everyones replies...
P.S. by reseting the terminal connections I mean that I have brushed them down at the battery, and re-mounted all major grounds to frame.

 

Don't try to use jumpers to the starter. THAT IS NOT WHAT I HAD STATED and if very dangerous if you make a mistake, you could FRY your ECM.

I stated take the Jumper Cables from Batter to the Battery Cables, if it still does not start then you know there might be an issue with the terminal connectors.

Just doing a cleaning of the surface does not mean that you fixed the issue. All you managed to do there is clean off the deposits off there. Wont help if the cables themselves are rotted. It's best to replace them (they are not that expencive). I had one truck here that cut the terminal connections off and replaced them with new ones. But still had a starting issue like yours. I pulled the cables and replaced them. Fixed
The core of the cables was so bad, that it took 5x's the power to send enough to start the truck. And this was a 97 Chevy 1500.

 

I would also test your fuel pressure and do a leakdown test. Once your truck is running and warmed up, will it start up again without any problems if you shut it off for a minute? Will your truck start if you put a little starting fluid in the intake manifold?

My truck had a similar problem and it turned out to be the fuel pump. When it was on its way out, I can start the truck by getting a jump or using starting fluid. Your truck will run becuase it needs less fuel pressure to operate than it requires to start. After I replaced the pump, I played around with the old one and found that it was starting when I got a jump becuase the pump was being supplied with 14V (from the other car) instead of 12V from the truck's battery. My truck would not start using a jump pack, it could only be started by a jump from another vehicle. Seems as if the extra 2 volts gave the pump the kick it needed to start the truck.

 

Sound advice I would look into this due to they have a valid point.
This is why I was trying toensure your issue was not the cablesfirst. Go with the cheaper part then work your way back.

 

If you're on your second battery, 99.9% chance that's NOT the problem. And if the battery is charged, then whether the alternator works or not doesn't matter - it should start and run until the battery runs down.

Further, if it starts when you jump it, then it's NOT fuel and NOT the fuel pump.

And sorry to say, if it was turning over OK before you replaced the starter, then it wasn't the starter.

Sounds to me like there's a connection that's missing when you connect your battery, and bypassed when you have jumped it. If you don't find it, fer cryin' out loud, go to a shop! It will be a lot cheaper than what you've already done!

Quite honestly, I'd write up a complete list of what you've done and take it to a shop now.

 

Well Pilgrim, tha't startin to sound like the best possibility yet...So I've taken your advice MNHawk and checked the wires for any issues as far as corrosion goes. When it came down to it I just yanked both the positive and nagative wire and terminals out and replaced them with 2gauge high performance wire. Cheap, and pretty usefull when checking the starter strap. Everythings back together and....No bueno!still the same reactions, pump only primes in cold evening air and with jump. I think it's time to send her to a real mechanic. I've priced out fuel pumps and figure it will probably be one of the first things needed, so thanks again for everyones help...I'll get back on and repost when I finally figure this thing out.

By the way, all this work that I have done on my own so far has still been cheaper than the initial dioagnostics and starter replace quote that a local shop gave me. $476 to replace a starter I think not!!

combining consecutive posts

 

Sounds like a lot of work and money.
Before you dump it off at a mechanics shop. Take it to the dealer. By me they charge $42-$60 to diagnose problems. They will be able to tell you what is wrong, without a doubt. Worth the money, and considerable less money then what you have already spent, and no doubt will spend if you keep replacing parts. It could be a plugged air fitler, temp sensor, partially plugged fuel filter,worn out fuel pump, or a host of other things. Even things you have already "fixed". Speaking of fuel pumps, you need more fuel pressure to start the truck then you do to keep it running. If this is a CPI engine, you need in the neighborhood of 60spi to start it, then it will drop off about 9 psi to run. If your fuel pump is only pushing 50psi, not enough to start, but enough to run.

I am not even goign to guess what the problem is, you have had your hands on way too many parts.

 

Ignition coil.

 

i agree with JustBlaze!
just finished a fuel pump on a differant vehicle that did the same things you speak of. replaced the pump and it starts and runs. of course it doesnt run well but its a ford so.....
ive had very bad luck with duralast parts ive gotten 3 differant types of parts made by them and they all went bad in 2 months or under.
1 starter
1 alternater
2 brake calipers ( on differant vehicles. both seized)
i dont know how everyone else feels about theyre parts but i wont buy them anymore.