2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech Discuss 2nd generation S-series (1995-2005) general tech topics here.

Misfire no codes only when cold outside

Old Dec 17, 2022 | 12:20 PM
  #51  
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Hey Kenneth,
Grab a cup of coffee and watch this video. This is an '02 S10 that popped up in my "Suggested Videos" this morning on YouTube (I swear we are being watched ). Anyway, in the video he runs across both a vacuum leak and cleaning the little resistors in the MAF that solves the fuel trims. He is originally chasing a code unrelated to your truck but comes upon the other issues in his diagnosis. A couple of notes:

1. He doesn't really show the MAF resistors. As I mentioned in a former reply, you have to be very careful cleaning these. I'll try to get you some pics later today. Also, IMO it's much easier to take it apart to clean them. I've done it many times and is not difficult at all.

2. If you are not comfortable using brake clean searching for vacuum leaks, you can use a spray bottle with water. Some times that really helps you hear them.

3. The vacuum leak he finds is EXTREMELY common in our trucks. It can/may also effect 4WD switching and HVAC controls. Don't just start jerking on the hose he finds. If you don't have an issue there it's very easy to pull it off the reservoir INSIDE the fender and create an issue you didn't have. It can be a PIA to reattach if you don't have the tools to make it easier (long curved needle nose is what I use).

Again, you really want to take the time without distractions to watch this video. I believe you'll find it very educational for you.. Don't get me wrong, not saying it's is the end all, be all and will definitely fix your problem. The fact that restarting your truck makes the issue to go away still is a bit of a wrench.

 

Last edited by rockp2; Dec 17, 2022 at 12:30 PM.
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 01:21 PM
  #52  
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Ok, this is what I have today,




This is at 2500 rpm

This is at idle
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 01:25 PM
  #53  
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And my TPS goes from 0 to 100 when I slowly press the peddle to the floor.
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 02:20 PM
  #54  
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  1. Which Autel scanner is this so I can go find a manual and follow along, I am unfamiliar with these models.
  2. Do you know offhand what the seafoam green area denotes on the graphs?
  3. It looks like one of the O2 sensors was repeated. We need bank 1 sensor 1, bank 2 senor 1 and bank 1 senor 2 (or 3)
  4. Is this data at 2 different rpms? you should include rpm plus all the rest of the sensor values like MAP, MAF, etc. Assuming that 2% load is idle and 9% load is 2500 rpm, your fuel trims get somewhat better at higher rpms which indicates the possibility of unmetered air although the change is not dramatic enough to explain everything unless your vacuum leak is massive like the brake booster. Check the air horn after the MAF and check for vacuum leaks
  5. Have you done the fuel pressure/leakdown test in the sticky yet? We are going to have to look for any fuel delivery problems and starting with the pump and pressure is the easiest start. The injectors get more complicated.

George
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 02:48 PM
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George,
It looks like it's a MaxiLink ML629
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 05:11 PM
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Yes, it's the Autel MaxiLink ML629
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 05:15 PM
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And I haven't done leak down pressure test yet. I can rent the gauge at AutoZone. I'm still trying to figure out how to properly use the scanner in live data.
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 05:29 PM
  #58  
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I also noticed that the air intake resonator has a little bit of play when I move it, I don't know if not being on tight without any play will cause a vacuum leak or not. I've checked the tube between the air intake resonator and the MAF and didn't notice any cracks or holes in it.
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 06:03 PM
  #59  
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Also when I was l checking the vacuum hoses I broke the windshield washer pump hose (it was really brittle plastic). Any ideas where I can find another one? Thanks again for the help.
 
Old Dec 17, 2022 | 06:31 PM
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Do you have enough length on both sides of the beak where you can splice it? For instance you could shove both sides into ~4" or so piece of small ID hose and zip tie the ends for now. Who knows, might even be a good permanent fix. Never tried it.
 

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