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MU1733 Strainer / Ignition coil order

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  #11  
Old 12-07-2012, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by porkfriedrice
Yeah, in order to properly solder the connections and wrap them in heat shrink, the tank will have to get dropped. No room to do it with the tank installed. Save some cash and do it yourself, if you have the tools. Since the tank was recently removed, it will probably be easy to get the filler/vent hoses off the tank and the strap bolts loosened.
Great. So I just wasted alot of money having the tank removed once and now I have to do it again. I don't have the tools, which is why I had it done professionally in the first place. I wonder how much somewhere else is going to charge to replace the connectors. I do not want to chance it because if this thing fails on me when I start my new job, I'm screwed.
 
  #12  
Old 12-07-2012, 10:07 PM
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How much did he charge you to put in the pump? I ask since the cost to have someone do it for you might be as much or more than the cost to get the right tools. Sockets/extensions, screwdriver for hose clamps, maybe pliers for the hose clamp on the vent hose at the front of the tank. A floor jack might not even be necessary, I had one but I also was using an old step stool to support the tank when dropping/reinstalling. If you empty the tank fully, it's relatively light. Ramps are helpful so you can get more room under there. In the end you will have tools that you can use for other projects and gain some good experience.
 
  #13  
Old 12-07-2012, 10:26 PM
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You need to stop worrying about this. I have worked on commercial saltwater fishing vessels in different maintenance mechanical and electrical capacity's for twenty five years. I have yet to see a silicon packed wire-nut connection fail.
 
  #14  
Old 12-07-2012, 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by spittybays
You need to stop worrying about this. I have worked on commercial saltwater fishing vessels in different maintenance mechanical and electrical capacity's for twenty five years. I have yet to see a silicon packed wire-nut connection fail.
So using them was fine for this application? He was concerned about the winters with solder corroding and crimp connectors pulling out. So there was thought behind that? When he said twist connectors and silicone and looked it up later finding that wire nuts don't belong in high vibration environments, I got pissed because I thought it was not the industry standard means of securing automotive wiring. My main case here is that I really need reliability because I am starting a job post-graduation where being on time and reliable is everything. Plus I might be on call when I am not on duty. I can't afford anything failing on this truck if there are any ways of preventing it. Plus since I got the shift that ends at midnight, any failures would be really really bad especially late at night if they happen. This truck only has 123k, and that isn't bad, but I will start saving now for its replacement in a few years, which will probably be a Trailblazer or Tahoe, but I will still keep this one. Thanks for the tip
 
  #15  
Old 12-08-2012, 07:41 AM
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If something is going to fail it's not going to be those connections. On a scale of high vibration relatively those connections are like a two, remember the wires are not solid so there's a buffering effect. Unless completely sealed butt connectors almost always fail in moist conditions.
 
  #16  
Old 12-13-2012, 06:07 PM
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I had the harness redone today anyway because it was cheap to redo and because I had other evidence that the work from this shop must be audited. Plus the tank was already empty and it took less than an hour. See attached. That is what it was before. They used solder, shortened the length of the harness and heat shrink.
 
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