So my 2000 Blazer 4 door 4x4 blazer decided that it wants to have multiple issues.

The only one that is causing drivability issue. I have what I can best describe as a jerk when driving, it feels like a misfire. I can be cruising along and the car will jerk suddenly for just a split second. Sometimes it will happen several times per mile or some times only once every few minutes. For example yesterday we took a day trip to DC (2 hours each way) for my wife's birthday and it only did it every 5 minutes or so on the highway. It is very random. I NGK standard plugs with only about 10k miles on them and the cap and rotor are around the same age. could the wires be the issue? They don't show any signs of damage or wear.

Issue number 2 is a P0410 code that I have had forever, I just never replaced the parts. I don't really have an extra $200 to spend right now. Or is there a way to bypass this system?

Issues number 3 is a po440 that just started today. I have about half a tank of gas so I doubt that it would be a gas cap because that usually trips the code within a couple of miles. I checked to make sure that it was on tight. I know it could be a purge solenoid but there seems to be more that one option available. Does anyone know which solenoid I should get and how hard it is to replace?

The last issue is one that I fixed 2 years ago and it is just now coming back to haunt me. When I ran my wires for my amp I accidentally disconnected the airbag computer and of course the light came on. I plugged the computer back in and the light went off. lately it has been coming back on for only a minute and then will go off again. this one isn't a big issue but I would like to address it since i have inspection coming up soon. Any input is appreciated.

 

#1. Install AC Delco 41-993 plugs. Check the gap before installing them, they are not always set at .060" out of the box. Install AC Delco cap & rotor. Put a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out, of the cap. Install a good quality set of wires, not a store brand, (Duralast etc). Do the crankshaft position sensor relearn, and check and adjust camshaft retard.


#2. Follow the steps in this link: https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-35146/ Operating the vehicle with the P0410 present, or bypassing the system, will eventually destroy the upstream catalytic converters.


#3. Follow the steps in this link: https://blazerforum.com/forum/diagno...plained-35145/


#4. Best to have a competent shop diagnose this issue.


NOTE: Keep in mind that with #2 and #3, that DTC's must be diagnosed and repaired in the order they are retrieved. Start with the first one, clear the memories, perform a drive cycle, then move on to any DTC's that set before, during, or after the drive cycle is complete.

 

I concur on the plugs, cap, rotor. Use AC-Delco parts there, no substitution. If you didn't put fresh plug wires in with the plugs, cap and rotor, then wires are likely in need of replacement as well. Replace those with good quality wires.

For the evap code, it's far more likely to be a leak than an electronics failure. First, check all the hoses and pipes. I recently learned that the filler neck pipes and hoses are problem areas on these vehicles. Many dealerships stock filler neck pipe assemblies and related hoses (and they only stock parts that move, so those parts are failing a lot if they are stock items), and many parts stores also stock aftermarket replacements. Check that area closely.

For the airbag/SRS light, at a minimum get the codes read and go from there. Our local Oreilly auto parts has a scan tool that reads everything, including SRS and ABS codes. You might try them for a "free diagnosis" first.

 

I assume that you have an auto? Does the RPM flare up when you get this sudden jerk every once in a while?

Have you looked under the hood in the dark, looking for arching spark from a bad wire? You can also spray a mist around the wire to encourage it to spark. You can usually hear it arching too.

Issue number 3 could very well be related to the jerking too.

 

That is one of the weird parts about it. It never does it at idle, only under load.

 

Not sure if bad wires are typically worse under load but they will be worse when misted with water so give it a shot.

You didn't reply about the transmission...

 

So This morning the issues got much worse. I left to take my son to school and it was happening a lot. So I was on the road to his school and it was really low on power. I got to the stop light and it idled really rough. So I took off from the light and it was fine all of the sudden. Then when I left his school it barely took off out of the parking lot and felt like it was running on 5 cylinders. Then the check engine light flashed for a minute or 2 and then stayed on solid. So now I have P0302 (cylinder 2 misfire). So that helps that I know where to start. I will check it when I get home from work staring with cylinder 2. As far as the transmission, it is an auto. I can't really watch the RPMs when driving because I never know when it is going to happen. However, It was slightly erratic while I was at the stop light.

 

Are these all the correct parts I wanted to order them?

 

Those look good.

I didn't realize he gave you the number for the Iridium plugs.

I generally use copper plugs, AC/Delco R44LTS6, and change them religiously every 30,000 miles. I've never had a problem, but many people aren't as devoutly religious about that maintenance interval. The Iridiums will last much longer, probably longer than the cap, rotor and wires.

The prices look a bit high to me, but if you need them ASAP, and you have Amazon Prime, you make up for some of that in shipping and quicker delivery I guess.

The wires look like a good deal for AC/Delco, though. Those are the 'universal fit, professional grade' wires that might need some modification/trimming to fit properly. The 'exact fit' set is AC/Delco 746T. Delphi XS-10229 will also fit better, or even Denso 6716054. The Delphi wires are excellent, Denso might not last as long before having age issues.

 

The parts on Amazon are much cheaper than at Advance auto or Rockauto.com. I disconnected and checked all of my plug wires yesterday afterwork and they all seem to be fine. I reconnected them all and made sure they were on tight. Then I went to the store and came home and the check engine light went off. I also drove to work this morning and it has been fine since. The wires do look rather old though so I think I may change them out.