Need advice
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 15

i have been wrestleing with my blazer's starting problem for months now.I opened my throttle body and smelled nothing but raw gas and the entire rear of lower plenum is clean. i hope it is just a leakey fpr and not the whole spider.Itis only 65 bucksfix the FPRwith seal kit. all i want to know is if the upper plenum which appears easy to remove is really a pain. any help would be appreciated.
#2
just replaceed the fpr on mine a few weeks ago it really was as easy as it looks took longer to clean all the carbon out while it was apart than it took to do everything else combined (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, oil change, fuel filter all done at the same time as the fpr replacement)
#3
BF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Vancouver. B.C. Canada
Posts: 3,429



Digital cameras are a great tool for repairs. Take lots of pics before you start and take some as you do your disassembly. This makes it easier to make sure all the wiring and vacuum hoses get back to their original routing and you won't be pulling wires to make connections.
If you need any torque specs, just ask.
If you need any torque specs, just ask.
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 15

thanks guys the wire routing is really not that bad. my only question is how the hell do you get the throttle and cruise cables out safely? Oh and torque specs would be nice too if yall dont mind.
#5
BF Veteran
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Vancouver. B.C. Canada
Posts: 3,429



For removing the cables, remove the brackets first, leave the cables in the brackets.
The cables will just push forward to come off the throttle body.
specs later, it's intermission in the hockey game right now....
lower intake:
Tighten the bolts on the first pass in sequence(1-8) to 3N·m (27lbin).
Tighten the bolts on the second pass in sequence(1-8) to 12N·m (106lbin).
Tighten the bolts on the final pass in sequence(1-8) to 15N·m (11lbft).
Upper intake:
Tighten the upper intake manifold attaching studs on the first pass to 5N·m (44lbin).
Tighten the upper intake manifold attaching studs on the final pass to 9N·m (80lbin).
[ol]Tighten the fuel pipe bracket nuts to 3N·m (27lbin).
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6N·m (53lbin).
[/ol][/align]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2910/22EE19A0E611475484367AAFDE143340.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2910/66895286A85046DA880D611DEF28602F.gif[/IMG]
The cables will just push forward to come off the throttle body.
specs later, it's intermission in the hockey game right now....
lower intake:
Tighten the bolts on the first pass in sequence(1-8) to 3N·m (27lbin).
Tighten the bolts on the second pass in sequence(1-8) to 12N·m (106lbin).
Tighten the bolts on the final pass in sequence(1-8) to 15N·m (11lbft).
Upper intake:
Tighten the upper intake manifold attaching studs on the first pass to 5N·m (44lbin).
Tighten the upper intake manifold attaching studs on the final pass to 9N·m (80lbin).
[ol]Tighten the fuel pipe bracket nuts to 3N·m (27lbin).
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6N·m (53lbin).
[/ol][/align]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2910/22EE19A0E611475484367AAFDE143340.gif[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2910/66895286A85046DA880D611DEF28602F.gif[/IMG]
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 15

im almost done with my FPR and i am having trouble getting the longer fuel line to stay in the top of the injector. i see it has a plastic sleeve and an O ring. Does the Oring have to be arounth the bottom of the line or does it just sit below it/
#7
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location:
Posts: 15

bad news, the fuel lines jammed the oring and spacer assembly into the top of the injector body, plus the pastic flaps on the ends of the poppet nozzles are trying to break off. I think imma just go on and pich pennies to get the new MFI unit sometime this week. Thnaks for eveyones help
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
boomtruck97
Audio/Video Electronics
15
01-08-2010 01:34 AM
rcravincase
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
1
09-13-2009 07:58 PM








