Quick run down.... found Hubs(GM)at reasonable price. Start on the left as that was the one that seemed to wobble more when jacked up and checked. Got the caliper of and ty-wraped out of the way. But the Rotor won't budge for love or money or big a$$ dead blow with wd40 all up and behind the studs and center as best as I could get it. Also tried to get some in from the back side while turing the rotor. The High $$ SM (like Helms) only shows the old style with the nut and changable wheel bearing. I just noticed today that the front of each vol. (there's 3) that it says that the information cutoff date does not exceed 3/2/00. That should not be a problem but I don't have any way to get Service Bulletins and the like.. anyway, back to it!
I can't get this damn rotor to budge. I even heated it up just arouind the center on the face of it between the studs and near the center where the hub comes through.
I will add this too, so please comment if you have one,,.... After getting it up in the air with tire/wheel removed, I could not get the unit to wiggle like you can with the weight of the tire/wheel on there. I was told by a shop that I needed Ball joints, lower, maybe upper too. Idler/pitman arms, center link, Control arm shaft and bushing, Upper, One side, and Stablizer links both sides. Now my neighbor told me wheel bearings and idler only.
So at this point after smacking and heating the left side like I have I want to replace this one anyway now. But I need help in getting the rotor off to remove the hub assm.
Would it be okay to loosen the three bolts at the back of the hub assm. to open up the space between the rotor and hub then use the dead blow on the studs to move it back from the rotor. Should be easy after geting it to break loose, right?
Or would that not be advisable? Then how? Is there a special tool? Can I buy longer arms to fit a snap-on slide hammer I got?
Any thoughts or ideas would be great.... Thanks...

 

You must have a real rust problem. Have you damaged the rotor yet and do you plan to replace the rotor?
I would spray penetrating oil in the rotor stud holes and soak it really well. If that doesn't work, try using a prybar in behind the rotor while tapping on the front outside edge of the rotor. It should come off.
Soak it overnite if you have to.
Let us know if you have success.

 

Just do what we all do, Get the BFH. rotors are cheap anyway!

 

I already had soaked it, even used the small bottle torch on it to heat the hell out of it, then hit it with WD40 type stuff. True penetraing stuff. Still have a couple of cans of this stuff frpm many years ago during my diesel fleet maintenance days. Believe me, it's good stuff that worked on stuff that it never should have. I am not going to wipe out a perfectly good rotor, cheap or not. Anyone know of any national tool type businesses that sell add on type parts, eg. longer reach arms for my three finger puller or a slide hammer I have. The slide is a Snap-on, CG 240 if I remember right. 2 - 3 1/2 in. reach.Think the rotor is 10 3/4 or 11" on the nose. Guess I'll rent one if I have to or just go buy one if I can find one.
Thnaks for looking at my post and suggestions

 

Sorry, I don't know of a puller for that purpose.
99% of the time the problem is a buildup of rust and corrosion on the inner surface of the rotor and the surface of the hub where they contact. I have a 3lb brass hammer that I use for exactly the problem that you are experiencing.
I also either replace or resurface the rotor after removing it in this way.

Try hitting the rotor near the center, close to the wheel studs and see if it will break loose of the rust.
Let us know if you find a better way, it could be helpful to others in the future.

 

Try using a pick and scrap the ring where the rotor meets with the hub.

Sometimes it takes some removal of the rust before anything will break threw it.
Liquid Wrench is the primary PENETRATING I use, second is the Penetrating spray from John Deere.

Only use WD40 when I am torching something off, BURNS very nicely, and helps burn wet wood also.

Oh and if all else fails remove the 3 retaining bolts for the hub and just replace it all

 

Okay SUCKcess FINALLY... Found a 3 finger (8") puller at Harbor Freight for a whle 10 bucks. Used a piece of delrin, like teflon, solid tube that fit the hub center for the puller. Beat the **** out of it again for a while... played with the puppy inbetween bouts.... hit it with the penetrating spray again and ten torched the **** out of it after I let it evaporate some. More beating... then the torched again. The with the spray again after more beating, then,........ sprayed but did not let it cool down long enough as I had a flame that would not have been a problem, but found that the Delrin burns easy and doesn't like to go out after it starts.
At any rate, after all the drama, and tightening the puller shaft a bit each time, plus putting the front end up bth sides, turned wheels all the way right to get a better angle. It still took some moe beating anf tightening along the way but the CS finally broke loose.
The puller might be a good investment for 10 bucks just to have around.
Hope that this might help some of you in the future if having the trouble....
Peace.

 

Glad to hear you got it.

I typically hit it PB Blaster, not WD40, and beat the hell out of the rotor face between the lug studs. I use the peen side of a ballpeen hammer. That usually does the trick. I highly suggest you put anti-sieze on the hub face so you dont have this problem next time.

As for teh bearing feeling fine without the weight of the tire, normal. I had a worn out bearing and it felt fine without the weight of the tire on it. There is a lot of leverage with that tire in place. Especially compared to the littlehub face.