Could it be because I didn't put it at TDC before I took the intake manifold and heads off?

 

"Could it be because I didn't put it at TDC before I took the intake manifold and heads off?"

Yup, that's exactly it. Whenever removing the distributor, always manually rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Make sure the timing marks are lined up AND the rotor points with a few degrees of the "6". If you had done that, it would have saved all this monkeying around Years ago, before you pulled a distributor, you used to have to mark the housing and where the rotor was pointing, with paint or a crayon.... with this distributor, the housing only goes in one way and the housing is already marked where the rotor has to point to.


Both timing marks on the dampener must be aligned with the index mark on the timing cover & oil pan. This puts #1 piston at TDC, (could beon the compression stroke, could be on the exhaust stroke). When you rotate the crankshaft, only rotate it clockwise. This "forces" the camshaft to follow the crankshaft by keeping any slack that may be in the timing chain on the passenger side of the engine. We're pretty sure the distributor is out of phase so, before you remove the distributor, make sure the rotor is ~90 degrees or more away from the "6". Remove the distributor and rotate the crank clockwise one revolution. If you miss the marks, don't turn counter clockwise and back up, go 2 revolutions clockwise. The distributor needs to point within ~15 degrees of the "6" when the housing is fully seated against the intake manifold. After the distributor is installed correctly, camshaft retard needs to be checked/adjusted with a capable scan tool.

The reason the distributor is not dropping in is because the oil pump drive shaft may not be aligned with the slot in the end of the distributor shaft. If that's the case, use a large blade screwdriver and rotate the oil pump drive just enough so the slot will line up when installing the distributor. Allowing the distributor to drop all the way in and seat against the intake manifold, will affect where the rotor points. When it's all said and done, the rotor needs to be within ~15 degrees of the "6". Adjusting camshaft retard will align it perfectly.

 

Ok we'll I've got it somewhat running but it sounds like it has a big *** cam. Won't be able to work on it anymore today I have to go to work but I will be able to in the morning again. I get it close to the 6 and then try to start it and no start so I put crank back to tdc then pull cap off an rotor is about 180 from the 6. I'm so dang lost with this thing.

 

When it was running, did the check engine light come on and set DTC P1345 in memory? If so, the distributor is not timed correctly. If the DTC did not set, the distributor is timed correctly.


The only way to be 100% certain if #1 piston is at TDC of the compression stroke, or TDC of the exhaust stroke, is to remove the driver side rocker arm cover and check the #1 cylinder rocker arms for slack, (both valves must be closed). What I have explained in previous posts is an alternative to removing the rocker arm cover, (way less time involved to just retime the distributor). You have a 50/50 shot at getting the distributor timed right: if it's 180 off, it will backfire and not start. If that's the case, remove the distributor and rotate it 180 degrees.

 

I don't have a scan tool to pull codes but to be honest I didn't even look at the dash for the cel. I only let it run for maybe 5 seconds. I'm goin to try this in the morning that you posted earlier before I come to work again

We're pretty sure the distributor is out of phase so, before you remove the distributor, make sure the rotor is ~90 degrees or more away from the "6". Remove the distributor and rotate the crank clockwise one revolution. If you miss the marks, don't turn counter clockwise and back up, go 2 revolutions clockwise. The distributor needs to point within ~15 degrees of the "6" when the housing is fully seated against the intake manifold.

 

I thought you were at work. Why are you online? Figured I post something so you'd have something to do tomorrow before I get online

 

Lol oh I am but I work in a big liquor store so there are lots of places to hide at and get on my iPhone real quick lol. I'm really kicking myself in the butt for not putting it at tdc before I took it apart. I have spent a day and a half trying to time it.

 

"The reason the distributor is not dropping in is because the oil pump drive shaft may not be aligned with the slot in the end of the distributor shaft. If that's the case, use a large blade screwdriver and rotate the oil pump drive just enough so the slot will line up when installing the distributor."

I know the oil pump drive shaft is down in the hole the dizzy goes in but I don't know what slot your talking about and not really to sure how to tell if I'm turning the oil pump drive. If I can't get the thing times in the morning I'm goin to go get a long enough screwdriver and try that

 

On the end of the distributor shaft there's a tab:




The tab fits into a slot in the end of the oil pump drive shaft:




The distributor is driven by the camshaft, and the
oil pump is driven by the distributor. When the distributor
is removed, look straight down into the engine and
you can see the slot. When you install the distributor,
and the distributor gear meshes with the camshaft gear,
the distributor shaft will turn as it drops down. If the
slot is not lined up with the tab, the distributor will
not seat against the intake manifold. Use a large flat
blade screwdriver to turn the oil pump drive shaft so it
aligns with the tab. There will be a slight amount of
resistance to turn the oil pump drive shaft.

 

Hi Black99blazer,

Here's an old school move: Have someone put their finger over the number 1 sparkplug hole. When you start to feel pressure, just turn the crank till your marks line up, TA DA.