As long as you can tell the difference in pressure between compression and exhaust, (they both create pressure) that method works too.

 

Hi Captain Hook,

Yeah, there might be a little pressure on the exhaust stroke. But when you're cranking slowly by hand the exhaust pressure is negligible when compared to the power stroke. After you make a few practice revolutions you'll be able to tell the difference. Back in the day, many times the crank timing marks were ambiguous at best. And, we would use a screwdriver to find the piston TDC, then see where the rotor was pointing. This is the way we used to do it back in the 60's.

 

Ok well I was called into work early today and had hockey when i got off so i wasn't able to work on it today but i was able to get a 22" flathead to try and rotate the oil pump drive shaft in the morning. Got the next 2 days off work so its time to get it timed lol. Thankyou guys for the advice and help.

 

Might have trouble fitting that 22" screwdriver in there.... not much vertical room above the hole before the firewall sticks out. You'll figure it out

 

That's exactly what I meant, "As long as you can tell the difference in pressure between compression and exhaust." On the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is open, and on the compression stroke, both valves are closed. There is a noticeable difference, if you pay attention. Like you said, a little practice is all it takes.

 

Ok well I was able to get the pointer on the cap lined up with the 6 while at tdc and it will wont start. My buddy says to try dropping it in 180 from the 6 but I can't get that either. Extremely lost an irritated with it at his point.

 

I understand your frustration Your buddy might be right, which is what we've suspected all along, but with all this fooling around, I think it's time to bite the bullet and pull the driver side rocker arm cover and make sure #1 piston is on the compression stroke. The reason I'm suggesting this, is I think there's another problem somewhere.... maybe rocker arm nuts are too tight or too loose??? Let me know when you've got the cover off and you have an assistant available to help you.

Just an FYI: The distributor drive gear has 13 teeth, each one represents ~27.5 degrees of rotation, which means the rotor could be as much as ~27.5 degrees away from the "6" and still be meshed correctly with the camshaft. To adjust camshaft retard, the distributor housing is rotated, which will put the rotor very close to the "6".

 

Ok well I tried the 180 from number 6 and I can get it to about 27.5 degrees away but jams up everything it would be exactly 180, it really seems to be 1 tooth off. It's running again but has the big lope still and pops. It somewhat smells of gas when I shut it off but it will stay runnin on its own. Done this 2 or 3 times now and every time when I put it back to tdc and pull the cap an the rotor is is close to being on the 6. My buddy should be comin over soon to give me a hand he just timed one of these like a month an a half ago.

 

Are you sure the cap is wired correctly? Notice placement of cylinders 1 & 3 on the cap.

 

Ya I have definatly got that. At first I didn't lol. But my buddy says that it might be possible that my block is 180 out when it's saying its tdc...is this possible?? I still can't get it to run right. I'm goin to go buy a bunch of gasket material and make new ones for every spot the exhaust bolts together because it does sound like there is a good exhaust leak on there.