Got the plenum off, looked inside, gas everywhere. Charged the line, didn't see any apparent leaks at the regulator and lines. Gas was on the top of the spider where the electrical connector is! Dryed up all the gas there, and recharged the lines, gas again on top of the spider! I guess I need a new Spider! I'm not a happy camper! Is this a tipical place for the spider to leak? There was 4 screws there, would trying to tighten then down help? Really can't afford $400.00 plus,in parts, not sure what I'm going to do! Also, there was water around the edge of the lower intake manifold. Right side corner near the thermastat housing. Can water leak from the gasket there, or anywhere ells?

Do they sell kits, that have everything I need to replace the spider, lines, electrical connector, and both gaskets, at a better price then if I baught then separately? How much would a spider cost at a junk yard, and would I be taking a big risk doing that? Can they be tested out side of the car?

Sorry for so many questions! It's been a long day, and I have some decisions to make. I'm disabled and I don't have the energy or the money to be fixing this problem, but I need a car!

Thanks again for all your help, I really do appreciate it!!

 

captain hook knows a lot about blazers like a know alot about residential and commercial plumbing.

 

No "kits", everything is ala cart. Ebay has remanufactured CMFI injector assemblies for around $150. Kind of a crap shoot, but might be worth a try. Gotta be careful with one from a boneyard: Never know what you'll get there.

 

Thanks Captain! I'll have to shop around. What about the lower intake, can it leak water? Is there anything special I should know when removing it??

 

Could be a leaky thermostat gasket. 95 lower intake gaskets don't normally leak, but it's not impossible. Might be a good idea to pressure test it. Most auto parts stores rent/loan cooling system pressure testers.

 

If I presure test it, will it show me where the leak is, or just that I'm leaking presure somewhere? Also, what size tap and die do I need to chase the nuts and bolts for the upper and lower intakes?

 

You would see an external leak. If the intake gaskets are leaking on the inside, or a heater core, or a head gasket, or a cracked head, you're not going to see those, but you would notice a drop in pressure over a few minutes time.


Not 100% certain with 1995 intake bolts, but I think they're 5/16-18, (1996 & newer definitely are). Take one out and go to your local hardware store and match it up.

 

OK, The rain is gone, so i'm going to get at it on friday! When I remove the lower intake, Do I need to remove the distributer, and is there anything special I should know when removing it? Also, what should I expect to pay for a spider?

 

Hey captain are you out here? I need to know if I need to remove my distributor Lon my 1995 to get the lower intake out? I'm about to start working on it! Thanks

 

Yes, it must be removed. Disconnect negative battery cable, ignition in the OFF position, keys on the work bench until the distributor is reinstalled, distributor cap removed to expose the rotor: Using a socket and ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the rotor lines up with the "6" on the distributor housing, then pull the distributor straight up.







The distributor shaft will rotate counter clockwise a few degrees before disengaging the camshaft gear. When reinstalling, make sure the rotor points to the "6" with the distributor fully seated against the intake manifold. No need to put #1 piston at TDC, provided you do NOT rotate the crankshaft, OR operate the starter, while the distributor is removed. Lining up the rotor with the "6" is merely a reference point for reinstalling.