Oil Leak
Thread Starter
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Super Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,786
From: Tucson, Arizona
Rynoauto: yep agree that when driving the air flow will push leaking fluid all over the place making it difficult to find the source.
Good trick to use and will have to note it for future use.
Good trick to use and will have to note it for future use.
....!
New Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 4
Oil Additives.... Hmmm
Slick 50 threw a rod out the side of my Toyota block...
DuraLube actually used up the oil in the crank case. Made it burn off in my Oldsmobile...
Lucas, Ehhhhh.... Still questionable because of past additive experiences...!!!
Here's an interesting forum I just found all about Justice Brothers additives and the last comment says it all.
Justice Brothers Gear Oil Treatment - Bob Is The Oil Guy
HOWEVER, and this is a HUGE HOWEVER.....!
From what we learned at U.T.I. and Ford Fact Program (which is the basis of all automotive technology) the oil you use must be A.P.I. certified and have the lil API circle on the back of every container. The Automotive Petroleum Institute tests all the manufacturers oil and labels it. The crap at the .99 cent store or AM/PM doesn't have it...
Rule of thumb, if you stick with the same brand and grade oil for the life of the engine, you will get more mile out of that engine regardless. Additives to fix leaks are just plain stupid and on the borderline of being retarded. Now, I do understand that through just my own experiences that having the $ and or knowledge/work space to do such a major repair is sometimes almost immpossible or just straight up outta the question. Therefore forcing you to use stuff like SEAL ALL or some other quick fix on your radiator leak (EGG WHITES actually works, lol) will get you by untill the crap hits the fan, so to speak. Why wait. PARK it... Do the work.. It's much less costly in the long run. I drive an 88 S10 Blazer 4x4 and I've done all the required repairs immediately because I learned my lesson's the hard way. Thus, saving those experiences to video and posting them has help many other people too. Check out my site... rynoauto.org
Oh and don't use Pennzoil, it's got wax in it and collects in the bottom of the oil pan and clogs the oil galleys that drain back down through the heads...
If ya can't run radiator fluid, add Soluable Oil to water and use it. Good for heater core leaks like my brother has. This way ya' don't smell the coolant that smells like burning pancake syrup... lol
DuraLube actually used up the oil in the crank case. Made it burn off in my Oldsmobile...
Lucas, Ehhhhh.... Still questionable because of past additive experiences...!!!
Here's an interesting forum I just found all about Justice Brothers additives and the last comment says it all.
Justice Brothers Gear Oil Treatment - Bob Is The Oil Guy
HOWEVER, and this is a HUGE HOWEVER.....!
From what we learned at U.T.I. and Ford Fact Program (which is the basis of all automotive technology) the oil you use must be A.P.I. certified and have the lil API circle on the back of every container. The Automotive Petroleum Institute tests all the manufacturers oil and labels it. The crap at the .99 cent store or AM/PM doesn't have it...
Rule of thumb, if you stick with the same brand and grade oil for the life of the engine, you will get more mile out of that engine regardless. Additives to fix leaks are just plain stupid and on the borderline of being retarded. Now, I do understand that through just my own experiences that having the $ and or knowledge/work space to do such a major repair is sometimes almost immpossible or just straight up outta the question. Therefore forcing you to use stuff like SEAL ALL or some other quick fix on your radiator leak (EGG WHITES actually works, lol) will get you by untill the crap hits the fan, so to speak. Why wait. PARK it... Do the work.. It's much less costly in the long run. I drive an 88 S10 Blazer 4x4 and I've done all the required repairs immediately because I learned my lesson's the hard way. Thus, saving those experiences to video and posting them has help many other people too. Check out my site... rynoauto.org
Oh and don't use Pennzoil, it's got wax in it and collects in the bottom of the oil pan and clogs the oil galleys that drain back down through the heads...
If ya can't run radiator fluid, add Soluable Oil to water and use it. Good for heater core leaks like my brother has. This way ya' don't smell the coolant that smells like burning pancake syrup... lol
Last edited by Rynoauto.org; Apr 14, 2013 at 01:49 PM.
Thread Starter
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Super Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,786
From: Tucson, Arizona
Spoke Too Soon....
Yep....checked under the Blazer this morning...found a penny size oil spot on the driveway!.....and here I was thinking that the magic oil leak fix'in elves had made a visit....guess not....oh well....back to parking over a drip pan....cheaper and ALOT easier "fix"....
Before you touch the rear main. i bet its the adapter the cooler lines run into. it'll run down the inspection plate and look like its the rear main seal. ive replaced and seen it happen on 3 of em. run to the car wash,pressure wash the adapter. pull it forward into a dry spot,and get underneath it and get comfortable and watch. people think your nuts but youll see it leaking if it is. there is a paper gasket,and a oring on it.
The oil is coming from the small hole at the bottom of the bell housing. It is not the oil filter adapter, or oil cooler lines.
Again hopefully the leak is from the rear of the intake. I will begin to remove parts so I can get my hand in there before I remove the intake.
I will post my findings.
Thanks for the replies.
Again hopefully the leak is from the rear of the intake. I will begin to remove parts so I can get my hand in there before I remove the intake.
I will post my findings.
Thanks for the replies.
reread.
The oil will run off the adapter,down the cover,at the hole. makes it look like what you are describing. ive done several of them.
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