ok here is a list of everything new on the truck...

disty with cmp
cap
plugs
wires
fuel pump
sending unit
some tires (yes i know wont have crap to do with perf lol)
thats IT so far BUT the odometer reads 215k i was told engine had 90ish k miles i think i have been duped ! lol

 

Hmm.. Well, I'll stand by my statement about the crankshaft variation learn procedure. Call around and ask for pricing. Takes less than 15 minutes to do, but most people end up paying for 1hr labor... Tell them that you replaced the distributor and are getting code P1345.

 

that i will do but that will have to be after i get the o.pressure issue resolved lol

 

OK update... HERE is why my truck lost oil pressure but sure as ****... i didnt check it till AFTER the oil pump was done and i put it all back together and started it up lol .... oh yeah heres some pics of the work i did while i did the oil pump ... if you need ANY advice on doing the oil pump WITHOUT pulling engine just pm me im glad to help...


btw i added a big magnet to the bottom of the pan incase there are any shavings in the engine

 

Hmm. Could you elaborate on the cause?

With a stamped steel pan, it isn't necessary to pull the engine or transmission to pull the pan. With a cast aluminum pan, alignment of the pan is crucial and is much more easily done with the engine out.

 

well as you can see the magnet proves its a steel pan and not aluminum (as aluminum is not magnetic)

but anyways the part that is shattered in first pic... of disty is what keeps the disty from turning and popping Upward .. which would cause the small tooth that goes into the oil pump shaft to come out and ofcourse lose oil pressure ... i hop this helps someone out there !

CHECK DISTY FIRST BEFORE CHANGING PUMP!! lol

 

My comment on steel vs aluminum wasn't aimed at you, but rather those that have the aluminum pan and think that they can simply pull it and put it back in without problems. I know that your pan is steel.

And where does that part go on the distributor? It doesn't look like a typical hold down clamp... But maybe they changed something... The ones on the SCFI motors I have worked on were steel.

 

it is wrapped around the shaft below the rotor bout 4 inches

 

Must be they experimented with a plastic hold down clamp in the '95s with horizontal terminals.

 

ok so here is a new parts list of EVERYTHING i replaced while i had it apart...

2 inner tie rods
2 outer tie rods
2 adjusting sleeves
2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2front shocks
2 hub assemblies
1 radiator
1 pitman arm
1 idler arm
2 front rotors
All Front brake pads

btw i found wheel hubs for 59$each NEW with 1year warranty here locally ! autozone wanted 138$ each