I'm not even gonna ask where you'd plug it in

 

So if the CKP affects all the cylinders, then that sounds like it can be eliminated. It's this kind of brainstorming that I need to do so that I eliminate needless work on this issue. Problem is, sooo many things can cause a misfire so I have to prioritize my approach. Even though I did vacuum leak tests, I didn't use smoke. So I am going to do a smoke test because it seems to be pretty full proof. I'm in the middle of building a smoke machine.

If the smoke test turns up fine, I'll test the O2 sensors because I haven't messed with those yet.

After that, I'm going to do a compression check to see if maybe there is a valve problem causing leakage.

Ignition seems to be fine from my tests, fuel pressure is good, so I'm starting to run out of options after the three above.

This misfire is so small, that the SES light goes away on its own. It's been off for two weeks now. So I was able to get smog tested while it was off...lol

 

That. Is. Funny!

 

Post #27 gives you some things to check.


Might want to make sure O2 sensors are accurate, then use fuel trims to see if it's a lean problem or a rich problem. If it turns out to be a lean problem, you know it's not ignition, and time to check injectors, and possibly a smoke check.


Compression test is geared toward bad rings, (smoke out tail pipe). Cylinder leakage is more for leaky valves, (misfire).


Low fuel pressure=lean. High fuel pressure=rich.


Injector balance test will pinpoint an injector problem, (high dollar scanner).

 

It better not be my injectors because I just put in the new upgraded spider about 1,000 miles ago. Yeah, I meant to say leak down test in my prior post. That's why I mentioned a "valve problem" when I said it. I'm just gonna go ahead and do compression and leak down at the same time.

Sucks because I have to do all this by myself so I have no one to turn over the motor while I check the compression gauge...lol

 

Simple... remove the starter relay in the underhood fuse panel. Auto parts stores usually have remote starter buttons. Attach the two wires on the switch to the two pins in the fuse panel. http://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrenc...w&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Relays have the two wires that "energize" them (typically 12v from the car). Then there are the main IN and main OUT wires that get "connected" inside that feed whatever circuit they are completing (in this case the starter).

Are you saying connect that switch to the second set of connections that I mentioned above? That's a great idea but I don't need some crazy big wire gauge size in the switch assembly to do that? The switch assembly in the Home Depot link looks to be pretty much lamp cord (roughly 18 gauge wire, maybe 16 gauge tops). Does that relay go to a solenoid or something else besides the starter itself?

 

One of the terminals in the relay socket has battery voltage at all times. There is another one that goes to the starter solenoid, (on the starter). Jumping those two together will activate the solenoid and energize the starter. 18ga wire is plenty. All you're doing is connecting terminals 30 and 87 in the relay. That's what those remote start buttons are designed to do.