Thanks George. I tried adjusting the CMPR last week, but I couldn't get enough clearance between the bolt and the cap, there wasn't enough room for the socket and the universal joint. I tried getting a box end on it, but there wasn't enough room to get any rotation with it. Maybe a crows foot would work, but I don't have a set. Any thoughts on how to get in there?

Also, I pulled the spark plug, and it was pretty damaged. I replaced it and now we have zero misfires on all cylinders. I definitely got caught up in my confirmation bias thinking it was the fuel injectors, but at least now I've got a BAFX scanner and can be more effective in diagnosis (so long as I don't skip step one &#129297.

I would still like to adjust the CMPR if I can, so any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again!

 

Its been so long since I was in there that I don't remember what I used. Probably either a shorty socket or a stubby ratcheted/articulated box wrench like this:




I should put that stubby wrench on my key ring, I use it all the time.

George

 

Ok, coming back to this after a while, but I originally checked all over town for a stubby articulated ratchet, and didn't come across one until I randomly did a few weeks back. I had some time the other day and was able to loosen the bolt but it seems like I have the non-adjustable hold down plate (no movement/twist in either direction), so I'll likely need to pickup the adjustable hold down plate. I was going to post an update here anyways, but I've got bigger fish to fry, I'm working my way through your 'Crank No Start Article' , so this is on the backburner. I'll be posting on that front shortly.

 

A couple of things:
1. CMP Retard is not reported until engine RPM is above 1200....so be sure to do that to get an accurate reading.
2. Suggest staying with OEM distributor hold-down clamp as getting CMP Retard to 0° +/- 2° requires very little movement. A few minutes with a Dremel type tool and the clamp is more that what is needed to give you the adjustment range.
3. The OEM distributor uses a plastic body with brass bushings which anywhere near 100k miles is worn-out and the distributor is moving up/down and sideways causing all kinds of timing errors. Replace with an all aluminum distributor, usually well under $100 and easy to do. Just must be careful to put the rotor in exactly the same position, easy to tell if off a tooth. Suggest to not use the rotor and cap that come with the new distibutor, use only Delco parts.
4. When removing the distributor cap, be very careful of the two torx hold down screws. They are easy to drop and be gone...and the threads in the distributor body are very easy to strip. Also mark the spark plug wires before removing....one side is in sequence, the other side is not.

Let us know how it goes.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Lanny, when I get be back since e to the CMP I'll keep this in mind and let you know how it goes.