It is easy so long as you have taken into account that you will need to remove the c-clips from the diff and slide the axle shafts out of the axle housing.

 

you entered the ratio's wrong. it's 3.73:1, not 3:73, that'd be "3 to 73", not "3.73 to 1". not trying to out you, just clearing that up for the people that don't know.

also, i don't think i've ever seen the 4.10's before. what did they come in, the ZR2's?

@ echild:
if the wrecker's are charging you guys $400+ for a used diff, then what does a shop charge you for rebuilding it? the most i've ever paid (for a stock rebuild) is $550, including new bearings, seals & fluid.

also, the reason that 2WD's & 4WD's are not interchangacle is, that the "track" (width) of the rearends in a 4x4 is 4" wider than that of the 2WD's. just a little FYI to better expand your knowledge.

GL with the swap, hope you replace the axle seals when you pull apart your new diff.

 

Sorry I'm used to dealing with people halfway knowing rear end ratios so I do type out the slang. I have found tho about the only people that are gonna nitpick over that are on the net. You walk into any mechanic shop or call summit, jegs, or most any parts store and tell them you want 3.73s they are gonna know what you are talking about.

H04 is 4.11s. To answer your question as far as I've seen 4.11s were more common in the early firstgens but more often than not unless ordered with it they came with 4.10s in the later years.

 

That is likely more a fault of the source than neo's. I have seen many RPO decoders misrepresent gear ratios in this manner.

If the gears are bad, expect to add another 2-3 bills on that.

 

as for swaping out the brakes it will not work for the disk to drum conversion for stock brake. i ran into this problem when i bought a rearend from a junk yard that was drum and my 2000 blazer has disk. just thought that i would ive you the heads up because the mounting plates for the backing plates are different distances from the ends of the housing

 

Yeah I forgot about the spacer you need. On ebay s10warehouse sells it for like $30 makes the disk setup a true bolt on deal.

 

1. see how you put a "dot" in there, instead of a "colon" like you did in your original post? that's what i was correcting you on. not because i was nitpicking you, but to clarify for the novice that's reading a post, who wouldn't know better.
2. 4.11's in a 1st gen? like the saying goes, "pic's or i don't believe it". i had 3.42's in my '92 Jimmy, and that was the highest you could get. i wanted 3.73's for all the towing i do, but couldn't find any for the front diff (and the $ for the rear was stupid anyways)

nope. that was $550 for a new ring/pinion, bearings, seals, and out the door.

 

my brother in law said he knows how to swap the brakes.if its not a direct bolt on all i will need is a new backing plate?and that is 30 bux? can someone send me a link for the spacer backing plate or whatever you wanna call it...btw thanks for all the help its really appreciated...(sp)

 

That's dirt cheap! Rear end rebuilds around me are double that for new R/P, bearings, seals, etc.

 

yeah, my trany guy treats me really well. besides the great price on diff's, he also rebuilt the 700R4 for the LB i built for only $700, with all the good stuff inside. but that was just the rebuild, i did the re & re.