Rear hatch release
#4
Proper diagnosis requires a digital multimeter or at least an incandescent test probe. These things are quite inexpensive these days and if your going to work on your own truck you will need them. The alternative is parts swapping with the parts cannon but that can get quite expensive. I read countless threads that start off with a list of everything that has already been replaced followed by the frustration that the problem still exists. That said:
Your rear glass can be unlocked 3 ways: Remote, dash button, rear gate button. The dash button and remote both send their signals to the BCM which in turn energizes a relay and sends power to the latch motor in the tailgate. That all seems to be working correctly. The third option, the rear gate button has an entirely different power path. Fused power goes to the rear gate button via an orange wire through that button and on to the drivers door lock cylinder switch on a white/blk wire then exits the drivers door on a blk wire which changes to a blk/wht wire and then joins the relay output at the body relay block under the dash. The fault is either the rear button, driver door switch or any of the wiring I just described. The only way to know what's wrong is proper testing. If you get some testing capability then I will be glad to walk you through it. If you prefer the parts cannon then do the rear button first and then the driver door switch assembly. That said, there is no guarantee that its either of those two items but its more likely than a wiring fault. I recommend that you start learning how to properly diagnose a failure and perform a targeted repair.
Let me know if I can help any further.
George
Your rear glass can be unlocked 3 ways: Remote, dash button, rear gate button. The dash button and remote both send their signals to the BCM which in turn energizes a relay and sends power to the latch motor in the tailgate. That all seems to be working correctly. The third option, the rear gate button has an entirely different power path. Fused power goes to the rear gate button via an orange wire through that button and on to the drivers door lock cylinder switch on a white/blk wire then exits the drivers door on a blk wire which changes to a blk/wht wire and then joins the relay output at the body relay block under the dash. The fault is either the rear button, driver door switch or any of the wiring I just described. The only way to know what's wrong is proper testing. If you get some testing capability then I will be glad to walk you through it. If you prefer the parts cannon then do the rear button first and then the driver door switch assembly. That said, there is no guarantee that its either of those two items but its more likely than a wiring fault. I recommend that you start learning how to properly diagnose a failure and perform a targeted repair.
Let me know if I can help any further.
George
#5
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scoot
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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02-24-2005 09:34 PM