Okay, posted this last month but lost my thread. Here is what I have done so far, new:

*distributor, caps, rotor, plugs, and ignition coil
*fuel injector (CPI) the last one was only about 1 year old but developed a leak so new parts can be junk too
*fuel pump and filter
*intake gasket (just for the fun of it!)


After putting it all back together while checking the timing I find #1 has no spark? The truck (95 blazer obd2 without crank sensor) starts but runs lousy (obviously) and this was probably my main problem from the start.

#3 has spark so my timing light works. Plug wires are new.

I checked the distributor wires and everything looks fine, distributor cap/rotor is a delphi and everything was installed with care.

ideas anyone?
Thanks

 

To be honest, I would about bet the house on your egr valve having a piece of carbon stuck holding open the plunger or whatever it is. I have taken mine off (2 bolts) and even reused the gasket in a pinch. Carbon was built up really bad in my 95 and using a pick or whatever to break off as much of that crap as you can, you will likely be a happy camper after reinstalling. Good luck and I hope this helped.

 

Any chance you saved the old plug wires? Try using your old #1? All I can think of is a bad plug wire or the wire isn't seated in the distributor all the way. As you pointed out "new parts can be junk too".

 

Thanks for the replies everyone. Anyhow, I put on the old ignition coil and plug #1 now works but I have the same old problem (rough idle/stalling).....

When I was setting the timing I noticed that with the tan wire unplugged it runs smoother but plugged back in (the wire is for spark advance) the timing is jumpy.

I'm almost thinking I have a short somewhere? Also, since I have owned this truck when I hit the door lock with engine running it will act like it wants to stall.....so I know it has some kind of short, I just didn't use the power locks, everything else was fine. (until now)

I'm almost thinking new wiring harness but it's hard to tell how hard that will be (haven't searched this site yet).

Also I capped the EGR valve a few years ago so I dont think that would cause a bad idle as the EGR is supposed to be closed at idle.

I feel I'm getting closer, at least if I have to take it somewhere I can say I did the easy stuff.

 

I'm not sure what capped means and I agree that it is supposed to be closed at idle but if you happen to have a chunk of carbon keeping it stuck part way open, I can tell you from experience that it will run terrible at idle and while driving in other situations if it is stuck bad....just an easy enough thing to check and seeings that you also have a 95, it wouldn't surprise me. If I remember right, I was having a couple of different cylinders misfire irregularly, also. Good luck with it, whatever it ends up being.

 

I meant to say the EGR has been blocked. So I dont think any of the problems I'm having are EGR related.

 

Quick update, I disconnected a few wires for the alarm and I no longer have the door lock problem (engine would almost stall when the lock was hit).

I would like to remove the alarm completely but there are just a maze or wires - at least a dozen spliced in wires under the dash, I guess i will remove one at a time but there are places where 3-4 wires have been spliced into one wire and I dont have a clue what is what.

I really wish it could be something simple like the EGR valve.....

When i get done I would like to pick up a new PCM just to make sure my old one isn't fryed - and like everything else if that isn't the problem I can always return it if I dont need it....so far Autozone hasn't complained.

 

Problem is now fixed, I'm not sure what wire was causing the problem but I disconnected as much of the alarm as I could and no more rough idle or door lock problem.

And I hope it doesn't come back!

Thanks everyone

 

Glad to hear its running better. Take care.