Ok, I put all that on my list of things to inspect. Now if the shocks, bushings on sway bars and control arms need to be replaced, How much am I looking to pay to have them installed by my mechanic?? I hope its under $500 with labor and all that. thanks.

 

The individual components are not that expensive, but they can be time consuming. I would check things out first, then get an estimate.

 

I made an appointment for friday to get all that stuff checked out as far as the handling of the car. But, turns out i need a new alternator too. Reading .8 to .6!! Not too good. Guess we'll have to wait to friday to find out what is wrong with the handling. thanks.

 

Just looked on Youtube and found out how they tested the alternator, should read 12 Volts with car off and 14 volts with car on. Mine does not even register 1.0 Volts. Man, I guess with high mileage and old age, thats the price you have to pay. thanks.

 

The alternator doesn't read anything with the car off... LOL What you are reading when the engine is off is the battery voltage which if you were/are able to start the engine, 1.0V doesn't make sense. Where are you reading the voltage from?

 

He was reading the battery, Wait I got it mixed up. He only tested the battery with a mulitmeter with the car ON and it read .8 then .6 on the meter. He did not touch the alternator at all, just had the 2 clips on the battery with the car ON. He told me that .8 is bad. Not even registering 1 volt. Isn't the battery supposed to read like 14 volts with the car ON?? thanks.

 

Those numbers mean nothing to me... With the test leads on the battery, the voltage meter should read ~12V with the engine off and ~14V with the engine on.

Wait a minute... How did we get onto the subject of alternators and voltage levels in a handling thread??? I mean its your thread, we can discuss whatever, but seems way off the original topic.

 

As far as the handling, there is nothing I can do until I get it checked out on friday by my mechanic. i just cannot drive my car until I drive there on friday, its that bad. Just going over 55 mph is dangerous, my car is all over the road. I had my tire and shocks shop tell me my shocks were okay, just fine. But, then again my car has over 90,000 miles and The thing is I had my car rust proofed and there is so much black tar stuff underneath, i cannot tell if my shocks are originals. Ever since I got my new brakes and rotors put on, it doesnt feel the same. With new brakes and rotors, should there be any change in handling?? thanks.

 

Definitely should not be a change in handling when brakes & rotors get done...

 

I am just wondering, you know why all of a sudden after I get brakes and rotor replaced this handling problem shows up. Because I got all new heavy duty rotors and brake pads put on. Maybe once again its old age, and they must have never been replaced. Cause I got the car used in 2005, didnt think to ask about every single part that was replaced. it checked good in 2005 when i bought it and the handling was great, i could go like 70 mph on the highway and not feel a shimmy or anything, not even a viberation. But, now its totally different. Will replacing the bushings and tightening all the nuts and bolts solve the problem?? I dont think its the shocks. So that narrows it down to the bushing and sway bars, and control arms and bushings. Man, I have a bad feeling about friday, when my mechanic says that it will cost like a grand. That i need new shocks, bushings the whole 9 yards. thanks.