Hi all,

I bought a 2000 LS 2dr 4x4with 118k a week ago.

So far I've replaced the tires, shocks, idler arm, pitman arm, thermostat, trans filter, cap, rotor, wires, plugs,air filter, fuel filter, complete left door hinges, top engine cleaner, coolant flush (dex cool had jelled) and just the other day, brakes and rotors (about $3500 total).

The mechanic said there were no emergency brakes. The parts weregone and the cables were frozen.

I bought the truck "as is" but was wondering if it was legal to sell it without the e-brakes?

Also, are these supposed to be this high maintanence? It has blown my projected repairbudget by $1500.

It feels like a solid vehicle now.

 

Very legal. Unless they explicitly said 'this truck has properly working emergency brakes, we guarantee it'

Just like buying a vehicle with no engine, or with no door...etc...


Are you not very mechanical? Those repairs are pretty straight forward. Did he said exactly what parts were missing? The parts arnt too bad, but if you have to completely rebuild the system, it might be mildly annoying.

 

Just wondering because it's a safety device and yes, I have a high degree of mechanical apptitude, but I'ld much rather pay someone else to wrench on the cars...expecially when it's -10 outside.

Just for fun, picture 7 interlocking gears lined up in a row. The first gear is turning counter-clockwise. Which direction is the 7th gear turning?

 

Counter-clockwise.

More than likely, the reason it does not work is because the parking brake bands were worn out and needed replacing. These things are wickedly expensive for these trucks.

If it were a standard transmission equipped vehicle, I would say that it most definitely is a safety device, however, it is not considered to be all that important anymore on automatic equipped vehicles.

 

what state are you in? If I sell a vehicle in New York State(which I do) even with those miles, no matter the dollar amount, it has to be inspected-no ses lite, has to have a working 'e' brake and those steering parts you replaced-yep you guessed it-on Inspection. Depends on the state. You might call your nearest Department of Motor Vehicles and just ask-hey you never know! Maybe Mr. Dealer can help you out allittle....Jerry[:-]

 

Even NYS inspections no longer test the e-brake on vehicles with an automatic transmission, well, at least they never have in the past few years across several different inspection stations in varying counties in NYS for me. But it definitely is worth asking about.

 

Minnesnowta. I never use the e-brake on the AT equipped vehicles unless I'm parking on a hill. I use itwith the 6spd roadster all the time.

I will ask the DMV about it this week. I have to go grab some tabs for one of the other cars anyway.

Are these trucks high maintanence or do they generally holdup ok? I had a 99 S-10 2WD PU that was decent but it was much newer.

 

Just FYI...in Upstate NY I took the liberty to go to the NYS DMV site and I know its long winded but...Here's some of what you get for your basic $21 inspection. PS sorry if I clog up the site with site.....
Brakes At least one front wheel must be removed to inspect the brakes. [ul][*]Brake pedal reserve - brake pedal must have 1/3 reserve[*]Brake pedal fade - brake must hold for one minute without fading[*]Power brake unit - check for proper operation[*]Brake master cylinder - check for leakage and proper fluid level[*]Disc brake pads - check condition[*]Drum brake linings - thickness of linings must be at least 1/16 inch on bonded linings or at least 1/32 inch over rivet head on riveted linings, with no loose or missing rivets or lining[*]Brake drums and/or rotors - check condition[*]Wheel cylinders and/or calipers - check for leakage[*]All brake lines and hoses - check for leaks, cracks, chafing, restrictions, and improper support[*]Parking brake - check for components and function[*]Brake equalization - test vehicle for a straight stop without significant wheel pull[/ul] Steering, Front End, Suspension, Chassis, Frame & Wheel Fasteners Front end assembly - check condition [ul][*]Steering wheel play - check for excessive freeplay[*]All steering linkage - check for tightness or binding, excessive wear and/or looseness in parts, including idler arm, center control arm, tie-rod ends, drag link ends, steering and pitman arms, gear box, cross shafts, bushings, wheel bearings, steering column or steering wheel shaft mounting[*]Power steering - check operation, condition of belt, and for leakage[*]Shock absorbers - check shock mountings and for broken or missing shock absorbers[*]Springs and torsion bars - check for sagging or broken springs, or a broken, disconnected, missing or bent torsion or stabilizer bar[*]Chassis/frame - check for breaks, cracks, or severe rust at the suspension attachment points[*]Wheel fasteners - check for missing or broken parts[/ul] Tires (Except spare) [ul][*]Tread depth - must be at least 2/32 inch when measured in two adjacent major tread grooves showing the most wear[*]Tire condition - check for any fabric break or cut over the length or width of 1 inch, visible bumps, bulges or knots, and any restricted use designation on the tire[*]Tire pressure - You will be informed if the vehicle's tire pressure in not within the manufacturer's recommendation. This is an advisement only, and not cause for rejection.[/ul] Lights All lighting must be of an approved type and inspected for operation, proper mounting, and broken or missing lenses. Side marker lamps, parking lamps, and additional flashing turning lamps mounted on the side of the vehicle are not inspected. [ul][*]Headlights (low and high beam)[*]Tail lamps[*]Stop lamps[*]Directional signals[*]Backup lights (1969 and newer)[*]License plate lights[*]Hazard warning/four-way flasher (1966 and newer)[*]Directional signal indicator[/ul] Windshield And Other Glass No crack of 11 inches long or longer is allowed if any part of the crack is within the area cleared by the windshield wiper. [ul][*]Windshield - check for presence and condition[*]All windows - approved safety glass or rigid plastic and condition[/ul] Windshield Wipers And Blades (Not including rear window or headlamp wipers) [ul][*]Wipers - check for presence and operation[*]Blades - check condition[/ul] Horn Check mounting and operation Mirrors Check mirror locations for proper mounting, cracks, breaks, and/or discoloration: [ul][*]Model year 1970 and newer - must have a left outside mirror and an inside mirror, or both left and right outer mirrors[*]Model year 1968 and newer - must have a left outside mirror[*]1967 and older - must have one mirror that is either an inside mirror or a left outside mirror[/ul] Note: Any vehicle that has a permanent obstruction of the view through the rear window (Example: a truck or van) must have both a left-side mirror and a right-side outside mirror. Fuel Leaks Any fuel leak that causes dripping or pooling is not acceptable

 

Well, seems that the inspection stations that I have gone to over the years have not adhered to that regime. Especially considering that no inspection station that I know of actually drives the vehicles to see if there is a pull or brake fade...

 

In Maryland a car can be sold in any condition. Sales tax is applied at the time of titling (6% + title fee).
But it must pass an inspection similar to that posted by Peru before it can be tagged and driven on the road. The current cost is ~$65 and typically includes headlight alignment, a test drive, removal of >2 wheels, documented brake lining thickness, etc. Windshield cracks are limited to <dime diameter if not in the viewing area (none in viewing area).
Insurance is required and strictly enforced with a computerized cross-check, stiff fines and impound, and bounty for reporting a resident with out-of-state tags (big brother is watching).
Pollution is tested separately on a bi-annual basis for $14 with '96 and newer OBD II having the computer read without a dyno/sniff test. Only actively tagged vehicles newer than 1972 (or is it 77??) get the pollution test.
And yes, the state moto is "If you can imagine it, we will tax it."