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Soo... THIS is causing the neg camber?! With Pics!

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  #11  
Old 08-11-2011, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ChevyBlazerChick
*cough* Solid Axle Swap *cough*
i agree unless this is just a street truck. i ran a stock s10 with a no power 2.8 and 33s and destroyed cv joints almost everytime i took it out and i really didnt even beat on it
 
  #12  
Old 08-11-2011, 09:20 PM
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Well if it's just a street truck then he would get rid of the lift and tires. FIXED

An SAS swap will be easier down the road. Too much can go wrong with IFS IMO. I like things simple.
 
  #13  
Old 08-11-2011, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Senshi09
dude thats beast. Lemme borrow it for a few days

How high is it currently lifted?

You could try to fab your own arms for templates instead of waiting to try to find out how long they need to be. Just get some steel tubing take your current arms, cut the arm and weld a piece of tube to it. Viola-extension.

I was never any good at figureing out camber or crap like that, so if it needs to be shorter, just hack a chunk of the old arm off, re-weld and slap it back on until it looks like it should.

Since you said you're not driving the truck in it's current state, then you should already have the arms off it. So go crazy with them. The worst that's gonna happen is you screw the old arms up horribly and they are useless... well they are useless to you at this point anyway so no need to worry about that.

Takes time, gives learning experience and once its all done, since it'll be temporary you know exactly how long/short the arms need to be when you go to buy new ones.

I mean, thats how I would do it.. might seem like a lot of work but its better then playing the guessing game when buying the new ones. Get the wrong arms, gotta send them back and wait even longer. This way you'll know for certain.

But its your truck and your time/effort. All depends on how long you feel like waiting. Me personally, id be to excited to wait and start the hack and slash process knowing that im getting new arms anyway.
I will respectly disagree that redneck engineering is NOT the way to deal with any type of suspension issue.

You need to find out HOW the vehicle was lifted first and what the previous owner did not do correctly. Once you know that, do what needs to be done.

As a side note, that sure doesn't look to be nearly enough lift for 35's unless you keep it on the street AND never plan on hitting a speed bump.
 
  #14  
Old 08-12-2011, 04:01 AM
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I was told its 7 inchs of lift by the alignment shop and the only thing that needs to be done is have longer upper control arms to sit correctly. I guess whoever put the lift on had the same dilemma as I currently do, not being able to find the arms. Honestly, I don't take it offroad unless it's the beach or the jobsite that I work on. I suppose I will just buy the superlift uppers for 400 and just go from there. The way I look at it is they have to be longer and all I need is another 1-2 inchs in order to straight these wheels out.
 
  #15  
Old 08-12-2011, 07:33 AM
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I don't believe there are any 7" lift kits out there. 6" is the most so it sounds like you are just cranked beyond what the lift was made for just to fit those tires. Longer control arms might correct the camber, but it also may present problems with the CV shafts as you move the steering knuckle further away from the front axle.

My advice would be to get smaller tires & take some lift out of the thing.
 
  #16  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:05 AM
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Well id rather not do that, I really like the hieght of it and the size of the tires. Do they make longer cv axels to compensate for this? I don't think it'll be a problem, it looks like they'll stretch... but just incase is anything like this available?

The tires fit fine... I have PLENTY of clearance, nothin rubs with the wheels turned completly or when I hit a hard bump
 

Last edited by swartlkk; 08-12-2011 at 08:11 AM. Reason: *Combining Consecutive Posts* - Please use the EDIT feature to add additional information to your post if another member yet to respond.
  #17  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:16 AM
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But if you were to lower the stance to where the suspension is supposed to be for that lift, you likely would have problems with those tires. Just sayin'. The truck is WAY over extended on the torsion bars. It isn't safe and probably rides like an unloaded dump truck.

If you really want to keep those tires, concentrate on a solid axle conversion for the front end. Or get a sawsall and start cutting to open up the wheelwells so the tires will fit when the suspension is lowered to where it should be.
 
  #18  
Old 08-12-2011, 08:38 AM
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I suppose I'm just not understanding I apologize. The alignment shop said the truck is fine other than the upper control arms, everything fits rather well other than those because they weren't replaced (which they should've been in the first place I'm guessin considering almost every lift kit I've seen has come wit them). I think I'm just going to order the arms and install them, go from there. The truck actually rides very well compared to other lifted trucks I've road in, its suprising. It doesn't feel "tight" like others, thougb I'm sure that will change after the extended a arms. If the CV axles wont stretch (which it looks like they're goin to) then my next step will be spacers or longer shafts. The way I look at it is it should work, but if not atleast I have higher grade a arms that will have more clearance for the shocks to fit it, without having a chunk cut out of them! After the install ill be sure to let everyone know how it goes, thanks for the help and input! If it comes down to it, solid axle it is....
 
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Old 08-12-2011, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by AJBert
I will respectly disagree that redneck engineering is NOT the way to deal with any type of suspension issue.

You need to find out HOW the vehicle was lifted first and what the previous owner did not do correctly. Once you know that, do what needs to be done.

As a side note, that sure doesn't look to be nearly enough lift for 35's unless you keep it on the street AND never plan on hitting a speed bump.
I agree that redneck engineering isn't the way to go permanent, but it can help when it comes to figuring things out since he is going to buy the new arms anyway. I didn't mean for them to be permanent, just templates so he knew how long/short the new ones needed to be.

Of course shops are going to say its fine, they want you to trust them. When it all tears and breaks from being overstretched, then you take it back to the shop and they say oh we can fix this for around a couple thoughsand and you hand over the cash, lose your vehicle for a few days go to pick it up just to find out that there was more problems. Everything ive seen online only offer up to 6" and even the redneck good ol boys round here don't go higher then 6". You should definately lower it at least an inch.. or two to be safe. If not you will be looking at a lot more problems than what it is worth. BVut its your vehicle and your choice. If you want to risk certain doom, then go for it.

And I want to thank you first hand, since I was thinking of adding some height to mine, after I had it fixed of course, but now id rather not mess with it like that. To much involved, to much cash needed and to much time. Ill stick with my original ideas of just beefing it up. Good luck with the lift thing.
 

Last edited by Senshi09; 08-12-2011 at 12:25 PM.
  #20  
Old 08-12-2011, 01:49 PM
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everything's fine with it. It only has a 6 inch lift I found out and I found brackets that come with the superlift kit that extend my upper control arms up to 6 inches for around $80. I'm going with that because that's what was recomended to me by a friend with the same vehicle. Go big or go home...
 


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