I ended up removing the shaft it was quite simple and only took a couple of minutes. I would totally recommend just removing the shaft for anyone without this tool. Honestly I think number 3 was one of the easiest plugs out of all of them after removing the shaft.

 

This is one of many threads this month on changing spark plugs. One owner even discussed the problems related to a spark plug that got cross threaded. This would be one of the worst places to have thread damage and starting plugs back in to tight locations can be a challenge. To make sure that I always nail the angle and can feel that the plug is threading properly all the way to shoulder contact with minimal twisting force I put a section of 3/8” fuel line on the wire end of the plug and thread it in by twisting the hose. It’s floppy so you will find the proper plug angle and it acts like a U joint socket. Then it pulls right off when your down to the shoulder and ready for that final twist with a socket. This is really great on vehicles with coil on plug where you have to put the plug down in a valve cover tunnel and cannot get any finger tight feel at all. I started using the trick back around 1971 along with points, condensers, timing lights, dwell meters and carburetor rebuilds. Enough of the old school history lesson although I actually did walk through snow in the early 60’s to get to school in Chicago but it was only 6 blocks not a mile and I did have shoes. LOL.

George

 

What works better than the 3/8 fuel line, is a rubber insert for a dairy farmers milking machine. 9 inches long, flexible, fits over plug tightly, can't cross thread it, and releases from plug when you pull on it. Tractor supply, Farm and family, etc. 3 pack $12.00, still using first one 15 years now.