Thanks Les, I got around to putting the new speakers in over the weekend. I also did my best to get rid of the rattling, I have been driving around for a few days now and it is definitely better, but not perfect! I ended up using a roll of felt tape found on amazon for quite cheap, almost like the stuff for furniture legs, but a bit thinner. The one roll was enough to go around the edges of both trim panels where it was needed, I also put some over the metal clips that hold the trim on (pictured).


I have noticed a new problem in the last few days I wanted to show you Les. Something is going on with the shift interlock solenoid and the ignition switch, sometimes it wont let me take the key out unless I fuss with the shifter button! I explain whats going on much better in the video below. I am wondeirng if you had any ideas on how I could figure out what the problem is? I believe the problem is with the shift interlock solenoid, but it may also be the wiring for the shift interlock solenoid. I have had strange things happening with the shift interlock in the past where it would let me shift with the keys out as well. Any advice you can give is much appriciated!

 

Hi Zack,

Monitor circuit 1996 between the shifter and the lock cylinder (attachments). If circuit powers up but fails to unlock key, then you know problem is at ignition switch. If circuit doesn't power up, then you know shifter switch is the problem.

Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.

 

Thanks Les, thats exactly what I needed! I'm thinking the easiest way to check that wire in the diagram would be removing the steering column trim and finding where it connects to the ignition lock, I plan to do just that over the weekend and I'll let you know what I find.

 

I would guess much easier access at C204 or C211. I think you have the factory manual that will show the locations of these connectors. Good luck!! (Also could be a fuse or open wire feeding the shifter switch.)

 

Hey Les! Long time with no talking, hope you have been doing good. School picked up quickly for me so I had to really gear down and grind it out this term, all done now though! I made a little update of what I have been up to on my build thread. I finally found connector C211 we were talking about above and diagnosed this issue! I think the video below says it all but thanks again for the help on this Les, now time to hunt that radio electrical gremlim that I havent been able to figure out forever now...

 

A17 terminal shouldn't have power anytime shifter is in Park. Not quite sure what your two conditions in the video was. Power there would prevent key from being removed.

I actually ran the battery dead in my Blazer just a couple of days ago - apparently due to this electronic key lock mechanism. Wanted to spin the rear pinion to take out a c-clip in the rear diff to get an axle out. Asked wife to put it in gear and then shut the key off. Forgot to put it back in park afterwards, Next day - stone cold dead battery! Must have been that circuit staying energized.

Been good! Getting ready for Spring!! Working on the Blazer - fixing a noisy rough axle bearing during preparation of the Blazer for a longer trip up north with the dog (cabin on lake). Around town no problem, but not a good thing for the road. Too much dog hair to haul him in the other vehicles!!

 

Hey Les, I'm glad to hear you have been doing good lately! I will chalk up yesterdays diag to being mellowed out on all these pain killers from getting wisdoms pulled on monday LOL, I read at the top "hot in run or start" and was going with that. I now see the "open in park only" note as well, so something is going on here obviously because I was in park but A17 still had power? Whats funny is when it did have power in the video I was able to take the key out, then I put it back in and messed with clicking the shifter a few times so the key was "stuck" and tried A17 again, thats when I found no power there. Strapped with this new knowledge I will take that kick panel back off and have another look at things, something isnt adding up here... I will get back in there now and test A17 in drive/neutral just to make sure I have power then, then I will go back and test in park again and mess around with it a bit, thanks for the help as always.

 

Bingo! Glad you got it sorted! Best wishes!

 

Hey Les! So I got back out there and confirmed the shifter is bad, not the ignition switch. I decided I am holding off for a bit on what to do as replacing the whole shifter would be a huge job.

On the other hand, I got out today and finally figured out my radio problem! I originally was thinking a problem with the ACC wire somewhere from the fuse box to the radio, so I had a look at the back of the radio first and everything looked in order, I shook the wires in the back with the radio playing music and it wouldnt loose power. Then I decided the other most likely place to have a problem would be right at the fuse box, so I found the wire coming out the fuse box and gave it a shake with the radio on, again it wouldnt cut out for me. So then I turned my attention to the ground wire, now having already used my test light on pin B2 (ACC power) I knew I had a solid ground on the bolt pictured below, so I got out the DMM and tested resistance between the ground pin on the radio and the bolt/metal area, to my surprise it was reading open loop. After scratching my head a few moments I tested between the remote latch opener ground pin and radio ground pin, that time I was getting 0 ohms (good ground). Then I was really scratching my head after I tested the latch ground pin to the metal dash and got a solid good ground reading everytime, thinking how are these two ground wires connected but then I get nothing when I test radio to the dash?! Then what sealed the deal is when I went back and tested the radio ground pin to the dash again and got 0 ohms, after getting open loop many times before. So I kept playing around while my DMM was connected to the radio ground and dash bolt reading resistance and found that wiggling the wire harness coming to the radio made the ground reading jump all over the place (from good ground to open loop), I did the same thing connected to the latch and radio ground pin and got the same result after. So I think I can conclude the ground wire for the radio must be broken somewhere in that wire harness, probably around where I was shaking it. I peeled the tape back a bit and checked out the wires, did not find anything. So tomorrow I will just tap a new ground wire into the radio and run it to the bolt on the dash pictured below.

 

Got back out there today with great results, just needed to hit the parts store for some supplies first. Ended up stepping up the guage a bit to a nice 14 AWG ground to the dash (pictured), and most importantly tested with the DMM after. I tapped into the ground pin on radio connector and metal dash area again and was getting constant 0 ohm reading while shaking the harness or not. I think I have fixed my radio problem at last!! Driving it around this week to work and such will confirm, ahh I love summer time!