Tow my Blazer 4x4 -97
#1
Hi
Bought a Blazer -97 yesterday very cheap.
Since it doesn't start and I need to get it home I have to tow it.
It's about 70 km I need to tow so I have to remove the driveshaft because I guess it's not possible to put it in N in the 4x4-gearbox (don't know the english word) as the older ones with a stick instead of buttons.
How do I remove the driveshafts?
Must I remove the driveshaft for the frontwheels to?
I have no manual for it so I don't know what it says about towing.
Regards Magnus
Bought a Blazer -97 yesterday very cheap.
Since it doesn't start and I need to get it home I have to tow it.
It's about 70 km I need to tow so I have to remove the driveshaft because I guess it's not possible to put it in N in the 4x4-gearbox (don't know the english word) as the older ones with a stick instead of buttons.
How do I remove the driveshafts?
Must I remove the driveshaft for the frontwheels to?
I have no manual for it so I don't know what it says about towing.
Regards Magnus
#2
Just unbolt the rear driveshaft from the rear axle and then strap it up under the truck to keep it in the back of the transfer case. Fluid will leak out if you do not keep the driveshaft in the transfer case.
Once you have the driveshaft unbolted from the rear axle, wrap the u-joint with tape to keep the two cups on tightly so they do not come off while transporting.
There is no reason to pull the front driveshaft since the front axle will not be engaged.
Once you have the driveshaft unbolted from the rear axle, wrap the u-joint with tape to keep the two cups on tightly so they do not come off while transporting.
There is no reason to pull the front driveshaft since the front axle will not be engaged.
#3
Just unbolt the rear driveshaft from the rear axle and then strap it up under the truck to keep it in the back of the transfer case. Fluid will leak out if you do not keep the driveshaft in the transfer case.
Once you have the driveshaft unbolted from the rear axle, wrap the u-joint with tape to keep the two cups on tightly so they do not come off while transporting.
There is no reason to pull the front driveshaft since the front axle will not be engaged.
Once you have the driveshaft unbolted from the rear axle, wrap the u-joint with tape to keep the two cups on tightly so they do not come off while transporting.
There is no reason to pull the front driveshaft since the front axle will not be engaged.
Can you tell me how the driveshaft is mounted so I don't have to bring all tools?
#4
It is bolted in as I stated. You will need tools. I believe you will need a pry bar and a 10mm wrench plus possibly another wrench to combine and use for leverage. You will also want something to chock the wheels with to keep the truck from rolling after you disconnect the driveshaft.
#5
It is bolted in as I stated. You will need tools. I believe you will need a pry bar and a 10mm wrench plus possibly another wrench to combine and use for leverage. You will also want something to chock the wheels with to keep the truck from rolling after you disconnect the driveshaft.
Happy new year!
Regards Magnus
#6
Today I went to the car to remove snow and take the battery home for recharge.
There is some issue gear stick, I can't get it out of P. I know it's something with the small button. Is there any pictures or blown-views available somewhere? Like realoem?
Anyway, that should not be a problem if I remove the driveshaft, or will it?
Is there any other that can give me trouble when towing with the stick still in P?
Regards Magnus
EDIT: Spelling
There is some issue gear stick, I can't get it out of P. I know it's something with the small button. Is there any pictures or blown-views available somewhere? Like realoem?
Anyway, that should not be a problem if I remove the driveshaft, or will it?
Is there any other that can give me trouble when towing with the stick still in P?
Regards Magnus
EDIT: Spelling
#7
You have to have the battery in to get it out of park. There is an electronic interlock on the gear shift lever.
If you remove the driveshaft, that should not be a problem.
If you remove the driveshaft, that should not be a problem.
#8
Update.
I brought her home with a truck and a container he put on the ground. More expensive but safe and easy.
Yesterday I replaced the battery connectors to normal european.
When I was trying to start it leaked gas by the drivers door, so today I replaced 20cm gas tube and then it started after less than 10 sec.
Thats pretty good because its about two year since it was running last time. It was leaking in a 20cm tube from the tank that I replaced to.
I drove two kilometres to feel how it was shifting. It seemed okey, drove in low speed because of the bad tires and crappy weather.
Im ending this post by saying it must have been a stupid mechanic that couldnt fix two small gasleaks. But its good for me I got it for one tenth of what its worth
Regards Magnus
I brought her home with a truck and a container he put on the ground. More expensive but safe and easy.
Yesterday I replaced the battery connectors to normal european.
When I was trying to start it leaked gas by the drivers door, so today I replaced 20cm gas tube and then it started after less than 10 sec.
Thats pretty good because its about two year since it was running last time. It was leaking in a 20cm tube from the tank that I replaced to.
I drove two kilometres to feel how it was shifting. It seemed okey, drove in low speed because of the bad tires and crappy weather.
Im ending this post by saying it must have been a stupid mechanic that couldnt fix two small gasleaks. But its good for me I got it for one tenth of what its worth

Regards Magnus
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