Two Questions- Steering and Shocks
#1
hey guys, wantin alittle advice and wisdom if possible.
first question is on the steerin- everytime i turn the steerin wheel about 45 degrees to the right, i here a pop that comes from the front end. i cant feel it in the wheel, just hear it. and it doesnt pop when i turn back straight. anyone have any ideas what it could be?
and on the shocks, just wonderin...... whats the best way to remove the top mountin bolt of both the front and rear shocks? theres a buncha crap in the way of the front top bolts, and the rears are tucked up in a bracket.
thanks for your help and advice!!
first question is on the steerin- everytime i turn the steerin wheel about 45 degrees to the right, i here a pop that comes from the front end. i cant feel it in the wheel, just hear it. and it doesnt pop when i turn back straight. anyone have any ideas what it could be?
and on the shocks, just wonderin...... whats the best way to remove the top mountin bolt of both the front and rear shocks? theres a buncha crap in the way of the front top bolts, and the rears are tucked up in a bracket.
thanks for your help and advice!!
#2
The "pop" could very well be a dry or bad ball joint.
As for the front upper shock bolts.... piece of cake, remove the wheel & tire, soak the nuts with with PB Blaster, then use a socket & ratchet and a box wrench. Hold the bolt head and loosen the nut, (not vice versa).
Rear upper bolts... Soak 'em down with PB Blaster then use a long extension with a 13mm swivel socket:

Nuttin' to it
Use bolts & nuts when you reassemble, (toss the clip nuts in the trash).
As for the front upper shock bolts.... piece of cake, remove the wheel & tire, soak the nuts with with PB Blaster, then use a socket & ratchet and a box wrench. Hold the bolt head and loosen the nut, (not vice versa).
Rear upper bolts... Soak 'em down with PB Blaster then use a long extension with a 13mm swivel socket:

Nuttin' to it
Use bolts & nuts when you reassemble, (toss the clip nuts in the trash).
#3
well, i know how to do it. its just that theres so much crap in the engine comp and i gotta either pull it out or try to get around the stuff (brake lines and intake system on the driver side, and some other stuff on the passenger side).
#4
ive never changed ball joints. im sure i can learn quick cause i know how they work, just havent changed em. and tips or pointers?
and instead of PB blaster and WD40, i use MOUSE OUT aircraft grade lubricant. it sprays like the Blaster, but then swells and turns into grease. this helps break rust apart and other grease that it penetrates. its hard to find nowadays. i got lucky and found a full can under the counter at work
and instead of PB blaster and WD40, i use MOUSE OUT aircraft grade lubricant. it sprays like the Blaster, but then swells and turns into grease. this helps break rust apart and other grease that it penetrates. its hard to find nowadays. i got lucky and found a full can under the counter at work
#6
the plastic inner-fender is in the way, unless i come up from the bottom around the tie rod and A-arm area. itd be easier to come in from the top, cause that inner fender is open right there. ill post a picture of both the bottom and top veiws when i get the chance. and if its accessed from that wheel well, then there wouldnt be any reason for there to be an openin at the top of the shock bracket. just sayin..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
bigdaddykane93
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
14
05-08-2014 08:54 AM
yarinzim
Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain
1
01-30-2011 01:46 PM
Furner
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
4
01-02-2011 05:40 PM
dougg01
Steering, Suspension & Drivetrain
4
03-17-2010 10:49 AM







