Uneven Brake Pad Wear
#1
Uneven Brake Pad Wear
Rear pads, both sides; the wear is a taper or slight angle, more wear at the pad edge at the top of the caliper than the bottom of the caliper. Hopefully this makes sense. Not talking about inner vrs outer pad. Somehow the pads are squeezing the rotor at a slight angle. I could see one side showing this, but both sides and equally??....what is going on here?
For now I swapped pads, inner/outer and re-installed. I will be back in here as I was putting everything back together after replacing the rear axle bearings/seals and saw that I need to replace the rear brake dust shields....they are both crumbing from corrosion. Appears I will be pulling the axles out again in order to replace the dust shields.....there goes two quarts of gear lube and another cover seal.....hopefully I can find that reasonably priced G80 limited slip differential so I can install at the same time.
For now I swapped pads, inner/outer and re-installed. I will be back in here as I was putting everything back together after replacing the rear axle bearings/seals and saw that I need to replace the rear brake dust shields....they are both crumbing from corrosion. Appears I will be pulling the axles out again in order to replace the dust shields.....there goes two quarts of gear lube and another cover seal.....hopefully I can find that reasonably priced G80 limited slip differential so I can install at the same time.
#3
In case you'd rather not remove the axles https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-13955-924-213.aspx
EDIT: Wait a minute...those aren't the right ones...not sure if they have them for Blazers or not.
EDIT: Wait a minute...those aren't the right ones...not sure if they have them for Blazers or not.
Last edited by rockp2; 03-13-2018 at 10:54 PM.
#4
My rear pads had the same wear pattern. In my case, the culprit was frozen caliper pins. What condition are yours in? Mine were frozen in place so badly that I had to buy new brackets because I couldn't get the pins out. When I installed new pins, I was sure to use a good synthetic high temp lube. Don't remember the brand but it was blue. Haven't had an issue since.
#5
The caliper pins on both rear brakes were a little stiff, but moved. I went ahead and remove the pins and cleaned them off. I did notice that the dust boots made a nice air tight seal and such there was resistance in pulling the pins out of the bore in the caliper brackets. So I drilled a tiny hole for air release, which I am sure will get covered-over soon. Re-greased the pins with correct lube, re-installed everything.
The pads will need to be replaced soon as the thinnest portion of each pad is close to the min thickness.
Back on the road again.
Thanks for the replies.
The pads will need to be replaced soon as the thinnest portion of each pad is close to the min thickness.
Back on the road again.
Thanks for the replies.
#7
I know what you mean! Seems that a "normal" brake job on a Blazer includes removing the caliper brackets, removing all old pin grease, remove torn dust boots; install new hardware then new pads. That is if you can get by without replacing the caliper.
I rebuilt the rear calipers last time I replaced brake pads, tried to do the front ones, but could not get both pistons out, only one, could not block-off the fluid passage well enough to pop-out the other piston with compressed air....gave-up and bought rebuild ones. But then have had a problem with the caliper pins in the front ever since....too loose....possibly wrong calipers?....IDK.
I rebuilt the rear calipers last time I replaced brake pads, tried to do the front ones, but could not get both pistons out, only one, could not block-off the fluid passage well enough to pop-out the other piston with compressed air....gave-up and bought rebuild ones. But then have had a problem with the caliper pins in the front ever since....too loose....possibly wrong calipers?....IDK.
#8
My '03 with rear disc had a stuck piston on the driver's side and a frozen cal. pin on the pass. side. I was able to work on the frozen pin and got it out, so I didn't need to buy the bracket. You can get the calipers with or without the brackets. I decided to get both rear calipers and , of course, new pads. Both sides had the inner pad more worn than the outer side. But the pads were worn evenly, not a taper! I used a nylon bore brush to clean the bracket bores. Then lubed with cal. pin synthetic grease...... Captain Hook always said to replace the rear calipers when you replace the pads. I initially thought--to myself-- that was overkill. I have found out though personal experience that the Captain was right. When you consider the 'core charge' , the calipers are really inexpensive. Most calipers you get from AAP, AZ, and O'Reilly's are reman. Someone recently posted that Rock Auto does sell a Ray Bestos caliper that is brand new.
#9
I bought mine semi loaded, (caliper and bracket assembled) local with a lifetime warranty. It hurts, but only once.
I think someone should stash a copy everything Captain Hook said in that vault with the emergency seeds!
I think someone should stash a copy everything Captain Hook said in that vault with the emergency seeds!
Last edited by Rusty Nuts; 03-26-2018 at 07:00 AM. Reason: Miss CH
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