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Brake pad replacement?

 
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:31 PM
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Default Brake pad replacement?

My Dad has neglected his 2001 Bravada so now it squeaks when he brakes... It needs new pads in all four corners and, due to the metal on metal sound, probbaly four new rotors. I can have the rotors machined (if they can be at this point), no big deal.

Are there any special tools I need for the calipers, i.e. to compress the pistons? Can anyone give me an idea of what I need/procedure? Also, I assume I DO NOT have to bleed the brake lines, since there should be no detachment of the brake line?

Most places want $1,000+ to do this, so if I could save some money, it'd be awesome.

Thanks,

Sam
 
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Old 07-13-2006, 04:42 PM
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Default RE: Brake pad replacement?

a c-clamp for compressing pistons never hurt. you can do a brake job for about 100 bucks depending on price of rotors and type of pads that you get.
 
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:02 PM
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Default RE: Brake pad replacement?

DO NOT skimp on rotors. You will regret it. I only use premium Raybestos or Bendix rotors after having an el-cheap-o come apart on me, taking out a fender, caliper, rim/tire and almost the whole car...

As far as turning goes, if you can afford it, I'd put on new rotors. The more material you remove, the more heat will effect the rotor, allowing the rotor to warp much more easily than before turning.

No special tools required to do a brake job on a Bravada. You will want to have some extra brake fluid with you to top off the res after you are done. This is because I would not just force the piston back in without popping the bleeder to let out the brake fluid. The calipers are the lowest point in the brake system and as such, they collect all of the junk. By forcing the fluid back through the lines, you risk pushing that junk into a VERY expensive ABS pump. Fluid is cheap. Just open the bleeder as you force the piston back in with a screwdriver - prying between the rotor and the pad. A c-clamp would work equally as well, but will be more difficult to prohibit air from getting into the system with the bleeder open.

On that note, I have read reviews on a product called a speedy bleeder or something like that. It'll allow pressure out, but closes off once the pressure decreases below a preset limit. Just loosen and pump the brakes to bleed a system, then tighten back up. Sorry for the side note...

The rear brakes are a convensional caliper with an internal drum for the parking brake. You may have some difficulties removing the rear rotor if there is some buildup on the inside lip of the drum. That would cause the drum to catch on the parking brake shoes. Other than that, it's just as straight forward as the front.

*EDIT* - Oh and a few cans of brake parts cleaner should be on hand as well. Spray EVERYTHING down with the cleaner and wipe off any residue. Especially clean the rotor braking surface and the pads themselves. You'll also want to relubricate the slider pins for the calipers with some high temp caliper grease. It wouldn't hurt to spread some of this grease on the caliper contact points after cleaning them up with some emry cloth or sand paper.
 
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:04 PM
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Default RE: Brake pad replacement?

Does anyone know what size hex the caliper bolts are? *what you use to take them off*
 
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Old 07-13-2006, 05:23 PM
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Default RE: Brake pad replacement?

IIRC, the fronts are 18mm on both the caliper slide pins and the caliper braket bolts. But I haven't had a reason to pull my back brakes apart on my Bravada so I don't know if they are 15mm or 18mm...
 
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Old 07-13-2006, 11:52 PM
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Default RE: Brake pad replacement?

Swart covered it pretty well.

Just a couple of things.
If you have the torx bits they are usually 45-50-55, just buy the set for less then $10.
I would also buy a caliper tool, better then a c-clamp, and it also cost less then $10. Both will last you a lifetime.

In the rear calipers you might have to put an open end wrench on the caliper bolts/pins. Look for two flat sides under the rubber boot. Place the wrench on it. Otherwise you will turn and turn and turn and turn and you get the idea...

You can clean the rotors with soap and water, just dry them right away. But hit htem with brake cleaner once tehy are on the truck to remove any grease from your hands or where you lubed up the pads.

Put brake grease on the pins, and everywhere the pad back makes contact with metal. Yes on the piston too. This does not man to put brake grease on the pad face.

Brakes are pretty straight forward. Post up if oyu have problems or quesitons.


 
 
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