my front right wheel bearing sounds like an airplane so its time to replace it, however im pretty broke. i was thinking about getting one at a wrecking yard for 20 bucks or whatever and hoping it lasts me a while, problem is, my jimmy has 92k miles and the bearing is bad already and i think one of my left ones is going out. the odds of me finding anything under 100k miles at a wrecking yard are slim, is it worth it? and what years fit mine? do i need to find a model that has 4 wheel drive and abs since i have both? and what years lol. there are a ton of blazers at the junk yard, but not sure what options they all have without looking at them, just not sure if i need to get one that has 4wd or not etc.

 

2WD & 4WD bearing hub assemblies are not interchangable. The odds of getting a good one at the boneyard are probably 50/50. There's a fair amount of work involved in replacing the hub assembly, not quite the odds I'd bank on. Most auto parts stores offer different levels of quality in their parts. Federal Mogul just aquired BCA/National and markets their hubs under the Moog brand now. Moog, along with Timken, are quality hubs which means you'll pay more, but they'll last longer. You can find cheaper ones online, but they rank in the 50/50 catagory right along with the boneyard units... you might get one right out of the box that's no good. Better off to bite the bullet and get a good one and do the job once

 

try this place for hubs...

Hub Wheel Bearings items in blazer hub store on eBay!

i bought a pair thru them...one went bad...one year warranty and they stood behind it no questions asked.
i would buy from them again based on price and the service they gave me.

 

^ That's where I bought mine from. Also bought some for my parents 02 Trailblazer and they have held up flawlessly (knock on wood).

 

i found this guy selling timken hubs he says are brand new, i only need 1, not sure if he wants to sell just 1 hub out of all of the stuff he has though, but i think i may try

Front end parts 96 s10 blazer 4x4

Ok so i bought a new wheel bearing at Orielly's auto parts. we installed it, no problems during installation. i go and test drive it and the noise is still there

symptoms = at cruising speed, when i shift weight to the right by turning the wheel to the left slightly, i hear a vibration/hum on the right side (i think in the front), and the same thing happens if i turn right gently and shift the weight of the vehicle to the left. i hear the same noise/vibration/hum on the left front.

during the installation of the wheel hub we noticed that where the sway bar attaches to the lower control arm, there is little or no clearance between that and the lower bolt on my shock absorber. Also, neither sway bar bushing have a nut on the top of the bolt stud. there is a bolt going through the bottom of the bushing, and what looks like a washer on the top but no bolt, on either the left or right side of the vehicle. is it supposed to be that way?

is it possible the bushings are bad and they are flexing too much and im hearing the road noise vibrating threw the chassis? is it possible my shocks are dead and i am hearing road noise through the springs? anyone with a 2nd gen blazer able to simulate these conditions at any time and maybe found a solution or a cause?

ok, this is regarding my previous post. i found this DIY on shock removal which isnt what im doing, but it shows a good example of how close the bottom bolt of the shocks comes to the sway bar bushings, so that appears to be normal, and there is also no nut holding the top of the bolt on. it looks to me (or sounds like) the big washer is actually a big goofy nut that does have 2 flat sides so it can be gripped by a wrench and tightened, which to me seems very stupid, but either way. if these are all fine, then i dont know what could cause this noise anymore... is it normal??


How To Replace Front Shock Absorbers On A 1999 GMC Jimmy or Chevy Blazer

 

It's best to use a stethoscope to determine which hub is faulty. Each hub assembly has two sets of ball bearings, side by side. Depending on which way you turn, you're loading one set and unloading the other set. For example: Turning left loads the right outer and left inner bearing sets, and unloads the right inner and left outer.

As for the sway bar links, the ones you have are OEM. The replacements use a through bolt with a nut on top.

 

Turning one direction changes the sound, then it comes back the opposite direction?

If that's the case,whichever side you did not replace is bad. Classic symptom. You needed both bearings.