Did mine yesterday... The bolt on the fuel line was rusted and stuck on. Pb blastered it 4 times and would not budge. The only thing I have to add to this thread was to use a 20mm open ended wrench instead of a 21mm. I almost rounded off the end of the fuel filter bolt until I bought a 20mm wrench and finally got it off.

 

1st gen TBI trucks require no fuel pressure bleeding (at least the 4.3 model), and the fuel filter's screwed in on both ends. none of those stupid clips that are impossible to remove.

 

Im bout to do mine when I do my water pump, mostly because im positive its never been changed. So ive only ever done them on older vehicles (first gen muscle cars, 350 carb'd motors) and the way i would get the pressure out was by just removing the gas cap. Was wondering if that method would work with the 2nd gen blazers as well or should I pull the relay and still take the cap off before doing this? Does removing the relay work on its own? My haynes and owners manual says to just remove the fuel cap to releive pressure, and to disconnect the battery. Dunno why id have to disconnect the battery though. Definately not trying to get a face and mouth full of gasoline.

 

A good way to relieve the fuel pressure is to disconnect the power connection to the fuel tank and then try to crank the engine. It might turn over but it won't keep running. Then D/C the battery. Safety first, and all.

 

i work at a lubestop and when we do the fuel filters on any of our cars we dont relieve the pressure first, but on some of them i think it would make it a little easier.

 

I got splashed a bit when I did mine. Just a bit in the line I didn't catch in the oil/fluid change pan. I didn't relieve the pressure or remove the battery cable though. Asking for it I guess. The battery terminal removal is just a safely thing. Every project I do starts with "remove negative battery terminal..." in the directions. After I broke a terminal connector in a past vehicle I stopped doing this. I did pull the positive terminal today wiring the off-road lights though (so many wires to keep track of).

 

not to be reviving old threads or anything but im in the process of replacing mine on a 1998 and i cant get that darn bold off for the life of me. it seems to be rusted and not budging at all ive used pb blaster let it sit overnight still nothing moving. so my next logical step is to cut off the filter and some line and just replace it. unless you guys have any other options... also the only fuel line repair kit i can find is all straight pipe and the configuration of the line on my blazer is more of a 's' shape what should i do fellas?

 

Buy a brake line bending tool for $4, and replicate your fuel line section from the tank to the filter? Pardon my ignorance, I dont know how it attaches to the tank, but it could be somewhat simple!

 

Is the quick connect supposed to be so hard to release? The threaded end was no problem, but I've been working on the other end for half an hour and can't get it to budge.

 

I just did a 99 GMC 1500 pickup which I believe has the same quick connection at the fuel pump. There was no room to get a regular quick release tool between the plastic on the pump and the end of the quick release. There were 4 small metal tabs inside the quick release.

I used 2 very small flat blade screw drivers to reach in and depress 2 tabs that are next to each other. Then I cocked the fitting as if trying to pull it off on the side the tabs were depressed. While holding it in this position which kept the tabs from going back into their original locked position I reached in with the screw drivers and depressed the other 2 tabs.

Then the fitting pulled off the pump. It takes a close eye and patience to do this but it worked for me. There may be a special tool for this to make it easy but I don't see how it could fit between the plastic on the pump and the quick release fitting.

You might be able to fabricate a couple of curved pieces of thin sheetmetal to use to depress the tabs but that is porbably easier said than done.