2012 good idea thanks

 

Is there any chance someone can reupload these pictures to another hosting site? I can't get them to load on my computer. Thank you!

 

Check out the first couple pages of my build thread I have a write up on it there!

 

That works great for what I needed! Thank you! I already have a lever control lockable control cable, which I think is what I'll use instead of twist lock control cable. It'll go perfect with my manual trans case.

 

[QUOTE=swartlkk;306094

Depends on what you have for a transfer case now. I would not attempt this on the 4-button NV236 transfer case. Only on the NV233(NP233) and earlier NP231/NP207 transfer cases.[/QUOTE]

Why wouldn't you try it I have the four button and have been thinking of doing this

 

I did something very similar with an old boat steering cable worked great for a while until the outer coating on cable took a crap. The way you showed looks waaay better than my job. Nicely done I had issues yesterday and I am going to take your advice and tips to do it better thank you

 

My son did a similar thing to his 86 Blazer, with a little trial and error. We wish we had found your tutorial first because it would have saved days of frustration. Thanks for posting!!

 

So if I do this-can I rid myself of the 3 vacuum lines going to the transfer case?

 

Essentially, yes. You will want to check to see if the vent line at the transfer case switch is connected to the vent on the transfer case and/or transmission & plug off that port at the vacuum switch on the transfer case if it does tie into the other vent(s). You should also disconnect the line that runs up to the engine vacuum source & plug it off in the engine bay to eliminate any potential vacuum leaks.

 

I got the same cable from NAPA, and routed through the cable plug on the passenger firewall by drilling a small hole above that's still tight enough to seal out moisture. The different mounting I did was to come up in front of the coil cover airbox, right behind the overflow reservoir and into the passenger fender. I then kept the bracket original in the same place and used two cable clamps to hold the cable in place routing it through one of the holes for the actuator mounting bolts. I then sacrificed the actuator by taking it apart leaving me only the slotted cylinder that locks onto the bullet shaped diff cable. I then bent the NAPA cable into a three bend 'key' shape and fitted the top of the 'key' shape into the slot where the lock spring locks in the 'bullet' shape cable end fitting and secured it with a pipe clamp. That way if you ever want to sell or whatever you can easily put it back OE and let the buyer enjoy the nightmare this awful vacuum system has been for me. The only problem I'm trying to figure out is finding a metal brace to screw into for the handle as the entire column area appears to be plastic. Thanks for the photos and article-I spent around $35 for everything as opposed to the posilock system that's about the same thing for triple the price! Dodge and Jeep versions send the cable directly to the differential with an aluminum casting cover-while Chevy posilock is tying two cables together without an aluminum cast diff cover but charging the same price! Glad I stopped the order when the $27 freaking shipping charge appeared!