cool im going to try this out

 

Not trying to bring it up from the dead but any other way than using a clamp on the new cable to connect where the vacuum actuator went?

 

^^Just did this mod myself (well with my dad) and here is how we did it
Ran the cable through a hole in the fire wall above the clutch, under the brake booster, under the air box, then over the rad by the A/C lines.

In order to do it the way i wanted i had to weld in a chunk to make it ~1 inch longer

this is why i welded the chunk in

Mounted on fan shroud

Cut the rubber(green) and you will find the steel piece inside and just bend up to make tabs then just hook the cable into it we chose to bend it like a lawnmower cable(you know like the Blue (yellow being the steal thingy) seams to work anyways

feel free to move if i put it in the wrong thread

 

Excelent idea and nice photos. Thanks!!!

 

I also did this but I kept the mounting bracket in the stock location as I did not like the look of having it screwed to the rad gaurd. I also just drilled a hole in the mounting bracket rather than cutting and bending it so I could return it to stock if ever necessary. If you look up my build thread (https://blazerforum.com/forum/builds...r-build-66048/)
I have pictures and supplies listed that I used. I spent about $45 on mine. Its one of the best mods Ive seen so far. And thanks to everyone that I got the ideas from to make it my own.

 

Here's a great video on stripping down to the actuator and removing it - nice and quick and clear - How To Install Replace 4WD Front Axle Vacuum Actuator GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy Blazer 1AAuto.com - YouTube

I found it useful to show how easy it is to strip down the area and investigate.

 

Wish I knew about this when I still had my blazer...electronic 4x4 doesn't work for crap

 

Well I just did this conversion on my 95 s10 blazer and my front axle still doesn't seem to b locking. The light comes on in 4lo and I can hear the motor switching and feel a slight tug as if it locks but I swear it's n 2lo. Im lost idk what it could be!

 

You need to try and isolate what's happening. That was the symptom that I had too at first. I had heard that when all 4 wheels are being driven your tight turning sucks, but wasn't sure whether this was subtle of not- turns out it's not! It's very hard to turn tight with all 4 wheels being driven! As I wasn't sure what to feel for, I decided to jack up the car from the diff on a trolley jack and see whether the front wheels would pull the car along an inch or two as my test. I had bought all the parts for the conversion but wanted to isolate the fault in the existing system first. It turned out to be the vacuum actuator switch had stuck closed, which I identified by working forward through the vacuum pipe. A simple tap on the ground fixed it and it's worked for the last 2 months since. There was so much help on this forum in the stickies to help you work through the problem. Hope these couple of ideas help you!

 

Well the only thing it could be would be the actuator cable itself. I disconnected it and pulled it out and vice gripped the trans pin in place to lock the hubs and it works great. So I'm thinking it's a rusty cable. Il try it out tmrw and see how it works. But I do have another question... Should there be fluid leaking out of the cable housing when the 3 bolts/cover are removed and the pin is exposed?