How to: Ignition Switch Replacement - DISCUSSION THREAD
#21
As the description of this forum section states, please do not ask for technical advice here. This is for the discussion of the information presented in the article in as much as how it is presented, what might be able to be made better, etc. Please ask technical questions in the applicable technical section (2nd Gen Tech in this case). Thanks!
#23
Just did this job on my 1997 2 Door S-10 Blazer. The specific details mentioned on this replacement procedure thread were very helpful and although not exactly the same for 97 all the important info is there to get you thru the job.
Couple of things that may help the 1997 guys.......
I removed the dash panel around the guages, radio and vents. It's one piece held on by push clips and two phillips head screws going up above the guages. Take the two screws out and pull the panel off. This will make it easier to get that top steering column cover off.
The two screws holding the switch to the steering column (by the key) were inverted torx. It is an E4 size. I was able to borrow the socket from a local garage. A deepwell would have been better but the standard socket still worked. There was just enough room to fit it in there.
Finally my 1997 does not have the passlock system so no re-learn procedure needed.
Couple of things that may help the 1997 guys.......
I removed the dash panel around the guages, radio and vents. It's one piece held on by push clips and two phillips head screws going up above the guages. Take the two screws out and pull the panel off. This will make it easier to get that top steering column cover off.
The two screws holding the switch to the steering column (by the key) were inverted torx. It is an E4 size. I was able to borrow the socket from a local garage. A deepwell would have been better but the standard socket still worked. There was just enough room to fit it in there.
Finally my 1997 does not have the passlock system so no re-learn procedure needed.
#24
another successful operation
Thanks guys for putting up this procedure. I was able to replace my switch following the good directions here. I have a 2001 Blazer, fairly nice vehicle, not butchered up or ratty. A couple points: I was able to use a a 4mm 6 point deep socket acquired at Sears to get that inverted Torx bolt out.
Too bad, I had the switch in and out of that big socket it fits in. Last time it went back in I didn't get it seated properly, after a few key cycles it came out far enough to lose the gear mesh. I had to drop the three bottom covers to get at it enough to re-sync the gears.
I bought the switch at Auto Zone, it was OK except the wires that go to the little flat connector on the key mechanism were a little short. Not a real biggie, had to re-route the wires but there was enough room for them not to be pinched or anything.
Thanks again. Looks like may have fixed my intermittant issue with the SES and both brake warning lights coming on. Also miracle of miracles, the gas gauge seems to have started working, first time since I owned the truck. I found a lot of stuff in the forums about a well-known generic problem with the sender/pump assembly in the tank. Looks like there may an ignition switch component to that problem too. Maybe the gas gauge going crazy is an early warning system for the ignition switch?
ANyway, thanks again for your excellent write up on this.
Too bad, I had the switch in and out of that big socket it fits in. Last time it went back in I didn't get it seated properly, after a few key cycles it came out far enough to lose the gear mesh. I had to drop the three bottom covers to get at it enough to re-sync the gears.
I bought the switch at Auto Zone, it was OK except the wires that go to the little flat connector on the key mechanism were a little short. Not a real biggie, had to re-route the wires but there was enough room for them not to be pinched or anything.
Thanks again. Looks like may have fixed my intermittant issue with the SES and both brake warning lights coming on. Also miracle of miracles, the gas gauge seems to have started working, first time since I owned the truck. I found a lot of stuff in the forums about a well-known generic problem with the sender/pump assembly in the tank. Looks like there may an ignition switch component to that problem too. Maybe the gas gauge going crazy is an early warning system for the ignition switch?
ANyway, thanks again for your excellent write up on this.
#25
BTW, my Blazer is a 2001, has the passlock deal. When I got the switch changed and all the wires hooked up I tested it by starting it up before re-assembling all the panels and whatnot. Started right up, the 10 minute and/or 30 min re-learn procedure was not needed.
#26
Dang......
Car stayed fixed for a couple hours, then the no crank deal started again. I finally found the big purple wire and hit it with a test light while key was in the crank position, there was power in the wire. Went and got a starter ($150) and installed it. Had to jack up the engine about 1/4" to get the stinking thing out. Didn't take the bolt out of the motor mount. Good advice about working the wire connections through the wheel well.
#28
this is a damn good write up here. Thanks for doing it. Definatel going to be using it within the next couple weeks
For those who posted tidbits on the 97 blazers.. a HUGE thank you Your input will be very valuable to me while im doing this little project.
For those who posted tidbits on the 97 blazers.. a HUGE thank you Your input will be very valuable to me while im doing this little project.
#29
I just removed and installed a new switch on a 97 blazer 4.3 w and thanks for the step by step for this switch, but I am stumped about 3 wires. It is a black connector with 3 wires coming from the wire connector that is on the other end from the switch. It has a grey, blue, and an orange with a black stripe coming from the wire connector they are on a clip. These were not hooked up on the one i removed what are they for and where do they hook up at if they should be connected.