Excellent write up! After spending 30min sitting in the back of my 1995 blazer and sweating my you know what off trying to get the glass to opened I decided to come here and do a search. About one minute later I had it opened! This forum is great and has some great info!

 

Thanks for the info.. i got the window open but my problem is the hatch i cant remove the lower part of the modeling to get in there and manual open the hatch. I see something lose down there and the handle is not grabbing it.. any suggestions would be awesome.

and its 200o blazer 4x4 4 door. also at this time my power door locks are not working all fuses have been checked and working..

 

Sorry it's taken me a long time to respond here. akblazer2000, There are a lot of things attached to the molding. It does take some force to pull the resistance clips up and out of their holes. Once you remove ALL the screws, (check out my pics to see where they are) grab the molding where the window would mate up to it, and pry gently up. Don't pry up from the bottom of the tailgate, because those are not resistance clips, they are plastic tabs that will break. Once you get the clips out, lift up about 45 degrees and pull aft.

 

I just finished the attempt to replace the rear window actuator rod (blue piece of plastic). Only problem was it wasn't broken. I live on a very dusty road and it appears that the latch itself wasn't working. I had opened it per instructions and started looking around inside and noticed that the latch wouldn't open all of the time even if I tripped it manually. I took a can a WD40 (I hate it but it was the only stuff we had left) and gave the latch and spring a bath. Manually tested the system a half dozen times to see if it would work. Now I am going to go back outside and put the cover on it and see if it still works. Then I start looking for the rear washer hose. After reading the threads on it, I think only God may know where it is, maybe.

 

Just finished fixing my 2001. This was a fantastic step by step. The only issue I had was removing the old broken piece of actuator. It didn't really rotate off, I had to carefully pull it off, hoping not to break the green part of the actuator.

Thanks for this tutorial.

Paul

 

Awesome write up and pictorial. Everything was exact on my folks 2001 2dr 4x. A couple things to ad to write up are the screws holding metal cover over motor, lever, etc takes 9/32 socket head. It'll save someone a few min in the tool box. Second, there is no reason to cut through carpet. You can gently pull it away by prying with a screw driver to release the glue like you would skin a fish or critter. This way a lil carpet glue once repair is complete and nobody will be the wiser.

The round actuater did shift down on mine as well. It's tricky but you can get a screw driver to pivot it up. It moves freely. Also, no need in this regard to tear up the rear panel to get to it. Just be patient.

Now to order the part and reinstall. Awesome how-to. Thanks again.

 

Finished the install. Piece of cake. Just be carefully when putting the sheet metal screws back in as they strip out with very little pressure.

Again, thanks to the OP. Saved me a ton of time.

 

Three years later; You're welcome.

 

Ravenhurst

I pushed a couple of tires in too tight when I closed the tailgate. Window clicked shut just as always but now it's like a Chinese puzzle lol . I removed the two tires (through the back seat) and moved everything else that was touching it away from the TG too. I can hear the actuator humming when I push the button but no "click." I even did it while pushing steady on the TG like I was trying to make sure it was shut. I think it's prolly broke.

Your step-by-step process really helped me understand the operation of the rear window latch. Before I started hacking on my truck I went out to my favorite salvage yard to test my comprehension. I found a two door and a four door with broke out rear windows to operate on. I managed to get to the little blue "culprit" on both but could not disengage it from the green plastic portion of the actuator. I had to remove them by chopping the green piece. Even loose [in my hands] I am not twisting them correctly to "unlock" them. Once I get a better idea of how to remove the blue part without destroying the green one I will operate on my patient.

Cc Also by PM