Note: I did notwrite any of this i found this in a old thread post and thought it should definitely be a DIY: All Credit Goes to Swartlkk & XM Radio Guy
Also i just did this mod and it works great im so happy i found this old thread it was hard to find lol. But yea i love it so much better alot more light with brights and alot better for HID's if you have them like me because then the HID's wont have a constant turning on and off. Thanks So much!


Thanks to Jigg for letting me know this was so easy!

This should work for the 98+ NON-ZR2 trucks:

If you want to keep your low beam bulbs on with the high beams, find the yellow wire (not the yellow wire with black tracer) from the low beam bulb and ground it out. I elected to pull the wire loom back to get to the wire further from the bulb connector and strip off about a 1/4" of insulation from the wire without cutting the it. Using a soldering pencil, I soldered the new wire into the existing. With a self tapping sheetmetal screw, I attached the ground to the radiator core support. Last, I put the wires back in the loom and buttoned it back up! But that's just how I did it, you could use a clip on connector to splice off of the main wire as well, and it would work good for a long time.

I just did it in a little under 20 minutes, soldering and all. Here are some pics:


Just finished soldering

Wiring complete!


1995-1997 (May Work on other years do at own risk):

Tools and parts needed:
solder and soldering iron
4 crimp spade connectors
wire strippers
crimper
Heat shrink or electrical tape
Relay
Inline fuse holder with 10 amp fuse

How to wire your headlights so the low beams stay on when you have high beams on.
First take the cover off the power terminal block on the drivers side fender should look something like the 1st pic. then locate the wire harness (2nd pic) its kind stuffed under the ABS controller unplug it and you should be able to pull it out from under the bracket to get more room to work on it.
Once you have that unplugged and pulled out find the light green wire and the tan wire strip these are the 2 wires for high and low beams (3rd pic)

When you find the right wires take a stripper and peel back the insulation on them about an inch do not cut right through them it makes it harder to solder.
Using a length of wire strip the end enough so you can wrap it around the tan wire already stripped to solder. Use a spade connector on other end to hook up to relay.
Hook up the tan wire to pin 30 on the relay
Do the same for the light green wire and hook the light green wire to pin 86 on the relay
Take a piece of wire and put a a ring terminal on it and find a good place to ground it I used the bolt the holds the power terminal to the fender. The other end gets a spade terminal and is connected to pin 85 on the relay.
Take your wire with the fuse holder (leave fuse out) on it put a ring terminal on one end and attach it to one of the powered terminal on the power block. Put a spade terminal on the other end and attach it to pin 87 of the relay. Thats it 4 simple wires to hook up and your brights will have a much better light pattern.
Remember to put your fuse back in your fuse holder and your done.


ground to pin 85
fused constant power to pin 87
tan wire (low beam) to pin 30 and
light green wire( high beam) to pin 86
87a no connection



1st Pic:



2nd Pic:



3rd Pic:




All Credit Goes to Swartlkk & XM Radio Guy

 

I think I will do this with my 95 blazer, 'cos the high beams just aren't bright enough alone.

 

can anyone confirm which method works for an 03?

 

thanks I feel special now

 

Ryan,

Awesome job! It also looks like youdid the 98+ front-end upgrade. I`m thinking that your mod will only work for the 95-97 trucks, because the headlight wiring for the 95-97s is a little different than the stock 98+ trucks. I know this only because I havecompared the headlight wiring between my 96 Blazer and my wife`s 01 Jimmy. The main difference I saw is howthe wiring harness connects to the PCM, although that`s on the other side of the vehicle. I`m not sure what differs on the driver`s side.

Also, there is another issue thatpeople shouldnote: If you have a 95-97 truck and did not do the 98+ front-end upgrade, you must then determine whether your truck has sealed-beam style headlights (like the ones pictured in my signature) or composite headlights (the ones that are flush with the grille).GM seems to have been pretty random during the 95-97 years with the distribution of trucks with these differences. The main thing to be concerned about is that the sealed-beam trucks are a two-bulb system, while the composites use thefour-bulb system with 9006 (low) and 9005 (high), which separate the low-beam from the high.

The path I took in this situation was to eliminate the sealed-beam lighting assembliesand replace them with a conversion kit that replaces the headlight with a glass casing of the same size and shape, with bulbs that can be inserted, similarly to the composite system. The difference is that because you can only use two bulbs, I use H4s instead of 9005/9006s. I later found that I had to take it a step further by bypassing the factory wiring to a new heavy-duty switch and wire, with an inline fuse. I did this because the brighter lights kepttripping the fershlugginer factory relay. During this process Ilost the high beams, but I compensated by adding bright fog lamps on another separate switch.When all four lights are on,I don`t even need the high-beams, even in bad weather conditions. I will post pix of this later, since my album needs updating anyway.

The only issue I`m dealing with right now is the fact that this winter the abnormally frigid outside air, when combined with the hot air inside the housing, caused the glass to crack. [:@] I will thus be replacing the housings after the weather gets warm with a higher-quality brand. Not a critical issue, but still annoying just the same.

Yeah, I know I`m long-winded...

 

xmradioguy u should feel special, your famous now

 

For anybody that cares to see, here`s what the alternative solution looks like with the upgraded headlights and the added fog lamps. In real life it`s brighter than shown; I took the pix with my phone.

The third pic is of the switch I installed for the headlights, on the bottom-left. I may take another pic during the daytime, so the LED doesn`t blur it. Believe me, I tried many different things before going to the last resort of a completely separate switch. I initially wired the new lights to the factory switch, but for the life of me I couldn`t figure out how to bypass the relay, which makes the lights blink on and off.

One relay is in the glove box, but replacing it didn`t solve the problem. The only logical explanation I could come up with is that there is an additional relay built into the headlight switch itself, since I have replaced both the glove box relay AND the headlight switch to no avail. The Haynes manual has zero information on this, so I had to figure it all out on my own.

If anybody else has successfully bypassed the headlight relay without installing a separate switch, please let us know how this can be done. Thanks.

EDIT: Added a daytime pic of the switch.

 

heres my setup i got going on. Its so helpful!!
5300k HID lows + Stock highs!
Check out my pics
http://s990.photobucket.com/albums/af23/dmc1874/

 

I just installed the quad beam mod on my 2000 blazer s-10 and it works perfectly.

 

SVD what method did you use? Did you just ground out the yellow on the low beam?
Thanks. I have tried multiple ways and it hasnt worked. My friend did it on his 1998 k1500 and is trying to help me but with no luck.