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How-To: T-bar Crank - DISCUSSION

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Old Oct 27, 2011 | 08:47 PM
  #111  
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so torsion bar keys from synergy are a no-no? i was wanting to get those and a spring over axle kit for cost reasons
 
Old Nov 1, 2011 | 11:49 PM
  #112  
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I might do this, but the blaZeR2 sits high enough the way it is. Lol.
 
Old Nov 2, 2011 | 12:01 AM
  #113  
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Originally Posted by ballincopenhagen
so torsion bar keys from synergy are a no-no? i was wanting to get those and a spring over axle kit for cost reasons
I would think that the spring over axle kit would be way too high for just a torsion crank/ keys. That gives you ~5in of lift in the back.
 
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #114  
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watch how much you crank those bad boys, an inch shouldn't hurt anything, but anything more you risk ball joint and tie rod failure, trust me i u see to have mine cracked to the max
 
Old Nov 6, 2011 | 11:56 AM
  #115  
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I agree, if chassis ride height is out of specs it will cause excessive wear to all 4 ball joints, both outer tie rod ends, all 4 CV joints, and all of the universal joints.

Front chassis ride height is the vertical distance between the lower-most inboard point of the steering knuckle, nearest the ball joint, to the centerline of the lower control arm pivot bolt. Ride height is checked and adjusted when the vehicle is on a level surface.
Factory specifications are as follows:
1996 & newer:
4WD (except ZR2) = 4.6” to 5.0” (desired spec is 4.8”)
4WD ZR2 = 4.6” to 5.2” (desired spec is 4.9”)
 
Old Nov 7, 2011 | 12:49 AM
  #116  
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don't forget about the hubs. since the cv angles are so bad wheel bearings go out just as fast as everything else. I've replaced my hubs and CV axles 3 times in a little over a year. Replaced two tie rods on one side, one on the other, and replaced all of my ball joints. (Upper right twice). Not to mention your camber will always be negative tires will wear unevenly. kills your control arm bushings and front shocks. A lot of things can get messed up cranking torsion bars. Its such a terrible suspension setup imo.
 
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:40 AM
  #117  
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What about after market torsion keys that are suppers to to give like a 3-4" lift are those any better on parts or worse?
 
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:42 AM
  #118  
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What about after market torsion keys that are supose to to give like a 3-4" lift are those any better on parts or worse? What's the best way to lift that's easy on the pocket and not body lift I don't wanna look at the frame anymore then shows already ..... thanks
 
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 02:59 AM
  #119  
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Those would be worse on front end parts (assuming you actually get 3-4" of lift.) Those keys do nothing for the angle of the front end components.
 
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 11:54 AM
  #120  
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Originally Posted by twisteds10blazer
What about after market torsion keys that are supose to to give like a 3-4" lift are those any better on parts or worse? What's the best way to lift that's easy on the pocket and not body lift I don't wanna look at the frame anymore then shows already ..... thanks
When ride height is out of factory spec, suspension and steering linkage parts wear more rapidly. The more you lift it out of spec, the faster the parts wear. If you don't mind the unnecessary added expense, lift it up. If you're just trying to make your truck look bigger, park it next to a matchbox car. If you need or want more ground or tire clearance, go get a bigger truck.
 



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