i turned my bolts 2 times and i restored it back to stock height... no wheel alignment problems either.... and if it did have wheel alignment problems from turn the bolts 2 turns, i would just do the wheel alignment myself as i do on all my cars.... mechanic shops around here can no longer do wheel alignments....its to complex for them now...

 

Ok, So the problem I ran into goes like this. I replaced the ball joints in my 97 s-10 Jimmy and in the process loosened the the T-bars per instuctions in the manual. Now I have replaced the ball joints, I cant get the truck to sit level. One Bolt is cranked all the way up one all the way down and the truck sits almost level. The guy at the alignment shop could not get the alignment right and Im stuck. What is the proper way to go about fixing the ride height back to stock?

 

I can't tell you how many ball joints I've done and NEVER touched a torsion bar, totally unnecessary. Adjusting front chassis ride height is a simple procedure but the vehicle MUST be on a perfectly level surface, like found on a well maintained alignment rack. Measure the vertical distance between the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt and the inboard lowest point on the steering knuckle next to the lower ball joint. Adjust as necessary. When you start getting close, it may take several small adjustments to get it perfect. Have the tech check the spec, should be approximately 4.5"

 

Do you have any pictures of where to take your measurements from? When I bought my Jimmy the passenger front was sitting lower then the drivers side. Upon inspection of the adjustment bolt on the passenger side I noticed it was turned down to the point that the bolt was actually sitting below the cross member. I took some measurements from the fender (Tisk Tisk) to the ground and adjusted the passenger side to match the drivers side but I would like to go back and adjust in properly.

I had a local mechanic do both lower ball joints when I bought it but I doubt he would have crank the T-Bars down. Any chance they can back off on their own or did some monkey screw around under there?

 

The adjuster bolts don't loosen on their own, somebody fooled with them. A starting point would be to adjust both adjuster bolt heads so they are flush with the crossmember. If, when ride height is correct, the adjuster bolts are in noticeably different positions, suspect a weak torsion bar on the side that is screwed in farther. I don't have any pictures but the instructions in post #54 is how to do it.

 

Ok I will take a look when my wife gets home with it.

 

Does anyone have the abilty to make a photo diagram of this procedure:

"Measure the vertical distance between the center of the lower control arm pivot bolt and the inboard lowest point on the steering knuckle next to the lower ball joint. Adjust as necessary. When you start getting close, it may take several small adjustments to get it perfect. Have the tech check the spec, should be approximately 4.5"

 

I just posted the stock height checking procedure:
Stock Trim Height Measurements

 

Thanks Kyle, I looked all over for that and couldn't find it. Couple of things though... it's not real clear on how to take the measurements... measure the plumb vertical distance to the ground from each measuring point, then subtract the knuckle to ground measurement from the control arm pivot bolt to ground measurement and that will give you ride height. Also, the spec for Z85 (firm ride) RPO is the same as ZR2.

 

i have a 98 blazer and i was gonna do the same thing. are the components the same from a zr2 to a ls? and with stock shackles on the rear and i wanted to fab my own how would i go about doing that? do i replace the stock ones with the ones i make or do i have to do something else and how long would i have to make the ones im making to get 2'' of lift in the rear would i have to make them 2'' longer then the stock ones or is there some other process thanks