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How to: Wheel stud replacement - DISCUSSION THREAD

Old Sep 10, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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Default How to: Wheel stud replacement - DISCUSSION THREAD

This is the same for all four wheels. The front you can turn the wheels to make easier access. If your doing left front you turn wheels to the right all the way. Right front to the left all the way. Rear...your just SOL.

Tools needed:
JACK-AVOID SCISSOR JACK IF POSSIBLE
Jack stand - a must...the vehicle is not worth killing you if the jack failed and came onto you dismembering you are killing you.
18mm wrench
19mm wrench
Flat head screwdriver(kinda big)
5lb hammer
I have a 4way to remove my lug nuts. But you can use the supplied lug nut bar in the back of your vehicle.

1) Break loose the lug nuts with the vehicle on the ground
2) Jack up the vehicle and support it with jack stand

3) Remove the wheel
4) Locate the two 18mm bolts holding your caliper to the caliper bracket...remove them

5) Support the caliper with a bungee cord or anything keeping tension off the line

6) After doing this remove the two 18mm bolts holding the caliper bracket onto the vehicle and remove rotor at this time
7) Now you have access to the wheel studs...nice huh wonder why I needed to replace them

8) Using the 5lb hammer take powerful short control slams into them...mine took about 5 each

9) Now that you've removed all of them it is time to install the new ones. Slide them in and take the nut and screw it all the way. DO THIS ONE STUD AT A TIME...its just easier.


10) Now using the screwdriver and 19mm wrench...tighten down the nut until the wheel stud is FULLY SEATED on the wheel hub.

11) Repeat this on any other wheel studs necessary and you are DONE

12) Install rotor, caliper bracket and pads in reverse order. Compress the caliper pistons prior to install as this will make it easier.

13) Install caliper


14) Install wheel back hand tightening all lug nuts. Lower vehicle down to where the tire will not spin and torque the lug nuts. After torquing them then you can let vehicle down all the way.

LAST STEP - PUMP YOUR BRAKES BEFORE YOU DRIVE ANYWHERE!!!!!!!!!!
Time: 20 minutes...took longer to write this and upload my pictures than the actual work.
Experience: I recommend if you have not messed with anything like this you get someone to help/watch you. I am against paying people to work on my vehicle unless I do not have the resources or time.
 

Last edited by Silver00LT; Sep 10, 2010 at 11:54 AM.
Old Sep 13, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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Very nice tutorial man . I had to do this here while back and found (if accessible) if you can use a 1/2 inch impact and one of the old lugs you can just use the impact to seat them. It makes it a lot faster lol
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 02:15 PM
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Yes indeed it does...but all my impact sockets are gone(cat ****) and could not save them. And I sure as HELL was not going to use a impact on a standard socket...flying metal shrapnel FTL!

So I did it old school method.
 
Old Sep 14, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Great write up.
 
Old Sep 15, 2010 | 09:40 AM
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Thanks
 
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 02:54 PM
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one thing i'd suggest is using a bigger nut, one that the lugnut will seat on. put the stud through the plate, then put the bigger nut on there, then screw the smaller nut on the stud. grease the bottom of the lug nut so it spins on the bigger nut without the bigger nut spinning against the plate. then screw it in until the stud seats.
 
Old Mar 6, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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I'm curious as to why you removed the caliper from the bracket and then removed the bracket? Why not just remove the bolts holding the bracket and save a step? Seems to work for me any time I change pads or rotors or hubs or...well, you get the idea.
 
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