As a remote wire? Ya, that'd work. I just go through the wires with a wire tester (ice-pick style tool with a bulb, $2) and see which ones stay on when you turn the key to acc and turn the vehicle on.

 

I've been doing a lot of reading and researching on this, and i'm not entirely sure that the radio doesn't get switched power from the wiring harness. The thing on crutchfield (the picture i posted) which is the door chime module also has the wiring harness for the radio, now, i think that they say in the description of this product that the module supplies switched power to the deck because the wiring harness is included in the product. I never understood how the door chime was involved in the switched power for the deck, but i think that crutchfield only says that because the switched power comes through the harness. I would be interested in talking to a crutchfield associate about this. I think i'll give them a call tomorow. I found this GREAT site for radio install FAQ's they have all kinds of acrobat format things that give tons of info. Link to deck install Here's more tutorials, never looked at these ones though. Link

I would like to thank you personally 85FSBSilverado for answering all the questions i've had.

 

No problem. Do what I can.

 

What are your thoughts on the switched power with the harness?

 

I had said my brother had everything except fused constant power from the battery. This should be the only thing you're missing. You need accessory on, constant battery, ground, and usually illumination (my Clarion touchscreen had a light sensor). Then you have your speaker wires, but if you can't get those from the harness, there's no need for the harness.

To test for power, use one of those $2 12V power testers that looks like an ice-pick with a bulb on it, or a volt meter (you can get one at Wal-Mart for about $25, go for the digital, otherwise PartsExpress (click here) has a real nice one for $25.50 + shipping). You can test the voltage or check which ones are getting power when. I'd suggest the volt meter over the power tester, because you can ground out the wrong wire and mess something up. I accidentally did it in an Acura Vigor about 4 years ago. I was hooking up a CD changer and I had the HVAC control harness and stereo harnesses out. Accidentally tested on the HVAC harness and fried something while he was there. Luckily he didn't say anything and bought a new car. So be careful in what you're testing and how you're testing it, but using the volt meter will be no problem. Older cars don't have that problem, but with multiple systems integrated into the wiring, you may want to be careful. Testing speaker wires you can do with a single battery, and for what I said above, you may want to disconnect the power in your vehicle. If you take a speaker and connect a battery on the positive and negative and scratch the wire on the end, you'll hear a scratching noise through the speaker. You're powering your speaker a single direction, since the power you put out is alternating current, and the battery is direct current. This is an easy way to find which wires are your speakers. If you have the multimeter, you can test for resistance. 4ohm for your Alpines, and 4-8ohm for your stockers.

If you plan on running an amplifier sometime soon, or maybe never, you could do what I did, run a 4ga wire in, have a fuseblock mounted out of the way, but still accessible so you can hook up wires there. This way, if you ever need power, you don't have to run a new wire to the battery, just to the fuse block. I've got one with 4ga in, 4ga out, 8x8ga out. Bought a bunch of audio stuff for $500, and it was included. Don't think the brand was marked on it.

About the closest thing I could find similar:
http://www.audiopipe.com/AudioPipeCa...ture=AP-54.jpg

 

Yeah, i'm real savvy with electrical stuff. I'm in several engineering classes, all of which deal heavily with wiring. I have a VOM (volt ohm meter). I'm never gonna be putting an amp or anything in my car unless somebody gives it to me, and installs it. Thanks.