instead of the neg to alt, do the engine to chassis ground. Honestly, you shouldnt be dimming with the load that you have right now. Something is suspect, and I would have someone check the grounds, and how everything is wired.

 

Ok. I'll do that. Now, today I just got the high output alternator tested and it is working fine. And today, I also had the alternator that I currently have tested, and the battery too. At idle it is perfect voltage. I think it was either 14, or very close to it. Then, we tested it with all the extras the car came with, except the bass. I killed the bass(volume 0, but still had the door speakers on). I had the headlights on, the hazards, the heater on high, and the rear defrost on. The voltage was 13.something. Then we turned up the bass to about volume 30, and it was still the same. But if I turn the bass higher than that, (radio volume max is 50, i go up to like 42-45), the voltage goes down even more, and everything dims.
Now one thing I forgot to mention, my voltage needle is not in the right place. Now I know you guys are saying I should've said this in the first place, but it really doesn't matter. My voltage needle is never on 14. When I had the custom gauges put in, it was never set right. I am going to fix that eventually. Although the false reading has worried me, because I see the voltage needle low, I do have the actual readings still on my capacitor. The reading on the capacitor has gone down to like about 11.9 with headlights on, heater on, turn signals, and the sound system pumping like at volume 42. Along with that, a lot of dimming. So don't think I created this thread just because of a false reading on the cluster. Not only that, but I have noticed that my turn signal is always very fast, but then when I have all of the accesories on, along with the sound system high, the turn signal gets a lot slower.

 

you are using the stock voltage needle as your measurement?!?! USE A DMM at the battery. Dont use that stock crap.

 

I am using my capacitor to get an exact reading. I drive with my rear bench down, and all i have to do is take a look back. That is where I have seen the voltage go really low. On the cap.

 

thats the votage of the cap, not the voltage of your battery or the alternator. Ofcourse the caps voltage is going to drop. That is its job.

 

So even though the cap is connected directly to the battery, its not the same voltage that I am getting from the alt and battery? If that's the case, then I'll take it to Advance Auto Parts again, and this time, I'll have the voltage measured with everything running along with the sound system like at volume 45. Yesterday I had it tested with the sound system only at volume 30.

 

where is Advanced testing the electrical system at? If they are just watching the LED readout on the cap like you, then they are wrong. What you need to do is go buy yourself a $3 digital multimeter, turn on your car and turn up your audio. Attatch the DMM to the battery terminals and see if you are getting atleast 12V.

 

No, they actually brought out a machine, and put it on my battery. Then we turned the truck on on saw the voltage on the machine. It's the same machine used to test batteries, but it also has a setting to monitor the volts while the car is on.

 

Just buy a TSUNAMI capacitor i have 1 and my lights no longer dim with my jl and pioneer amp

 

No, he has more serious issues at hand. please read the entire post before you give your ramdon useless advice.