Blazer Overhead Display Upgrade
#51
Success! Shorty sun-roofed version came in the mail today.. I scoured 4 parts yards out here in Phoenix for a model that 1) had the overhead console and 2) the Trip/Mileage version with no hits at all.. someone must've picked 'em clean already, or people are just driving better.. Had to get one off eBay.. $34 shipped.. Pulled the display out of the new console, it did slip right into mine ..
Now the problem.. wiring.. I did not get a harness with the one I bought, so I am using the oem harness, and I ran a seperate wire from the data lead, purple wire on the OBDII connector, up the door post, over to the console. As I didnt have a pin sleeve to solder/heat shrink over it, I just wire-wrapped the lead onto the last pin to the right. On the oem 6pin connector, I had to snip off the right edge guide so it would go in the longer socket and the data wire just wraps on the last pin. I taped it all together so it wouldnt come loose. Again, plug goes along left side, wire-wrap data, right side. Color code apparently doesnt matter if you dont have the 9pin harness. I found a wiring diagram for a Venture DIC, the pins look very much like it, the extra 2 pins of the 9pin connector are Fuel Level (for DTE), and Fused Battery Feed. http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/driv...connector.html
Data is flowing, but is inaccurate.. the compass is completely whacked.. is stuck on SE, the outside temp is correct.. DTE says (with a full tank) 278mi.. Inst, Avg MPG seems very low, but I havent driven it very far yet. I reset the Mag variation (zone) and drove around the three circles to calibrate it, but guessing a couple days should get it to settle down.
Overall, I'm happy with the mod.. you guys had good ideas!
UPDATE: A couple days driving now with the DIC in place.
Dist To Empty (Range) looks more accurate,
Avg and Inst MPG also look correct.
Fuel Used looks inaccurate but it did say I used 1.4gal going 24 miles, so, maybe its working, but it might need the input on pin 13, Fuel Level (pin 13 first of the ones not used with the 6pin plug in the 9pin socket).
Compass just shows a C (not CAL). I havent done the "Circle The Wagons 3 Times, to recalabrate it, but another forum said if it doesnt have the remote compass (short arm sticking out of the console), it's not equipped, I'm still checking on that.
Next mod.. swapping the 1.5 din am/fm/cd for a oem double din AM/FM/CD/Cass.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/audio-...dbl-oem-70265/
Now the problem.. wiring.. I did not get a harness with the one I bought, so I am using the oem harness, and I ran a seperate wire from the data lead, purple wire on the OBDII connector, up the door post, over to the console. As I didnt have a pin sleeve to solder/heat shrink over it, I just wire-wrapped the lead onto the last pin to the right. On the oem 6pin connector, I had to snip off the right edge guide so it would go in the longer socket and the data wire just wraps on the last pin. I taped it all together so it wouldnt come loose. Again, plug goes along left side, wire-wrap data, right side. Color code apparently doesnt matter if you dont have the 9pin harness. I found a wiring diagram for a Venture DIC, the pins look very much like it, the extra 2 pins of the 9pin connector are Fuel Level (for DTE), and Fused Battery Feed. http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/driv...connector.html
Data is flowing, but is inaccurate.. the compass is completely whacked.. is stuck on SE, the outside temp is correct.. DTE says (with a full tank) 278mi.. Inst, Avg MPG seems very low, but I havent driven it very far yet. I reset the Mag variation (zone) and drove around the three circles to calibrate it, but guessing a couple days should get it to settle down.
Overall, I'm happy with the mod.. you guys had good ideas!
UPDATE: A couple days driving now with the DIC in place.
Dist To Empty (Range) looks more accurate,
Avg and Inst MPG also look correct.
Fuel Used looks inaccurate but it did say I used 1.4gal going 24 miles, so, maybe its working, but it might need the input on pin 13, Fuel Level (pin 13 first of the ones not used with the 6pin plug in the 9pin socket).
Compass just shows a C (not CAL). I havent done the "Circle The Wagons 3 Times, to recalabrate it, but another forum said if it doesnt have the remote compass (short arm sticking out of the console), it's not equipped, I'm still checking on that.
Next mod.. swapping the 1.5 din am/fm/cd for a oem double din AM/FM/CD/Cass.
https://blazerforum.com/forum/audio-...dbl-oem-70265/
Last edited by skygodtj; 05-02-2012 at 01:12 AM.
#52
Pix of the swapped Trip Computer in place.. I have determined its MPG, Miles To Empty, and Gallons Used are accurate also.. I actually found myself checking it often.. The swap was a great idea! You guys did good! =)
The other overhead console swap I did was add the Homelink panel. My '02 Blazer (but 10/01 build) had the door for a external garage door opener. You were to velcro your own opener and swap the collars so the outside button would push the opener button. I didnt like that idea, so I looked for an '02 model Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada HomeLink panel.
blazer homelink -trail | eBay
I found one on eBay for $15.95. Got it in the mail yesterday.. I removed the console from the ceiling, removed the old pushbutton door, snapped the Homelink door in place, ran Power and Ground from the Trip Computer leads, and power to the orange (lighting) LED lead, dressed the leads and screwed the console back into place on the ceiling.
I didnt get any docs with the panel, but my trucks Owners Manual had HL in the Accessories chapter. Programming the buttons was easy.. I reset the panel by push/holding the two outside buttons until the LED blinked fast, released them. Then the buttons are programmed for each door (if you have a 1, 2 or 3 hole garage). Push/hold the button you want until it blinks fast, push/hold your garage door opener (make sure the area is clear) until the HL light blinks slowly, then release. The HL garage door button should now work. Repeat for the other door buttons.
The range is not really that great. I have to be in the driveway to get it to work.. I guess an antenna mod might extend the range.
The other overhead console swap I did was add the Homelink panel. My '02 Blazer (but 10/01 build) had the door for a external garage door opener. You were to velcro your own opener and swap the collars so the outside button would push the opener button. I didnt like that idea, so I looked for an '02 model Blazer/Jimmy/Bravada HomeLink panel.
blazer homelink -trail | eBay
I found one on eBay for $15.95. Got it in the mail yesterday.. I removed the console from the ceiling, removed the old pushbutton door, snapped the Homelink door in place, ran Power and Ground from the Trip Computer leads, and power to the orange (lighting) LED lead, dressed the leads and screwed the console back into place on the ceiling.
I didnt get any docs with the panel, but my trucks Owners Manual had HL in the Accessories chapter. Programming the buttons was easy.. I reset the panel by push/holding the two outside buttons until the LED blinked fast, released them. Then the buttons are programmed for each door (if you have a 1, 2 or 3 hole garage). Push/hold the button you want until it blinks fast, push/hold your garage door opener (make sure the area is clear) until the HL light blinks slowly, then release. The HL garage door button should now work. Repeat for the other door buttons.
The range is not really that great. I have to be in the driveway to get it to work.. I guess an antenna mod might extend the range.
Adding the Homelink panel does one very important safety thing.
It prevents someone from stealing your garage door remote and opening the door when you're gone.
That, along with not having your home address in your GPS could keep someone from breaking/entering/stealing your stuff.
(oh, and yes, it really was 102F, in the shade today.. I'm in Phoenix)
Last edited by skygodtj; 05-23-2012 at 10:32 PM.
#53
Beginning Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Central PA
Posts: 34

I just got back from my local U-Pull-It w/ an upgraded overhead display. I'm gonna be doing the double din upgrade for the truck here in the next few weeks and will do the overhead display at the same time. I'm a tiny bit concerned about the new unit because there seems to be a hot spot on the top left corner of the display. It almost looks like a burn. Hoping it still functions properly when the time comes.
Thanks to the OP for this useful thread!!!
Thanks to the OP for this useful thread!!!
#54
Mine has that as well. Just a guess, but I figured something is soldered inside right there and discolored the display.
But I also have to thwap the console occasionally to get it to light up, so maybe there is a problem (all the pins were bent when the USPS stabbed it a few dozen times with screwdrivers so I've assumed that is the cause of my problems instead of that one spot)
But I also have to thwap the console occasionally to get it to light up, so maybe there is a problem (all the pins were bent when the USPS stabbed it a few dozen times with screwdrivers so I've assumed that is the cause of my problems instead of that one spot)
#56
Mine has the same marks on it.. 'must be a production trait..
I didn't use a DD kit (tho I should have).. tho old radio had the stub which went into the frame hole in the back of the radio box.. I had to cut that frame hole off as the radios stub interfered.. I will have to use a piece of slumbers strap to support the back of the radio..
Biggest problem is still getting it to power on.
I didn't use a DD kit (tho I should have).. tho old radio had the stub which went into the frame hole in the back of the radio box.. I had to cut that frame hole off as the radios stub interfered.. I will have to use a piece of slumbers strap to support the back of the radio..
Biggest problem is still getting it to power on.
#57
New Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 4

Hello all,
Couple weeks ago I found a trip computer in a 97 Bravado and installed in my 96 Jimmy. My existing 6 wire harness didnt have a purple, it had a yellow instead so I wired like for like as indicated below. When it turns on, temp and direction are good, ave speed while not moving is 26, miles traveled is 99 and after 10 seconds all data resorts back to -- except direction. When I swap the purple wire on harness to yellow in vehicle wiring and run yellow on harness to data link it doesnt turn on at all...any ideas?
1) dark Green 5- RAP [x] fuse Supply Voltage
2) black/White 6- Ground
3) Dk Green/White 7- VSS Signal
4) Lt Green/Black 8- Ambient Air temp Sensor
5) gray 9- Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
6) yellow/white 10- LED Dimming Signal (instead of purple)
(1)emerald green 7- RAP Fuse Supply Voltage
(2)black w/ white stripe 8- Ground
(3)dark green w/ white stripe 9-VSS (Vehicle Speed Signal)
(4)light green w/ black stripe 10- Ambient Air temp Sensor **
(5)grey 11- Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
(6)yellow w/ white stripe 12- LED Dimming Signal (swapped from purple)
(7)(empty) 13- *empty*
(8)orange 14-Battery Positive Voltage
(9)purple 15- Trip computer/nav class 2 serial data link (swapped from yellow)
Thanks
Update: I found another Trip computer in a 1997 Blazer and swapped with no difference in results = (
Couple weeks ago I found a trip computer in a 97 Bravado and installed in my 96 Jimmy. My existing 6 wire harness didnt have a purple, it had a yellow instead so I wired like for like as indicated below. When it turns on, temp and direction are good, ave speed while not moving is 26, miles traveled is 99 and after 10 seconds all data resorts back to -- except direction. When I swap the purple wire on harness to yellow in vehicle wiring and run yellow on harness to data link it doesnt turn on at all...any ideas?
1) dark Green 5- RAP [x] fuse Supply Voltage
2) black/White 6- Ground
3) Dk Green/White 7- VSS Signal
4) Lt Green/Black 8- Ambient Air temp Sensor
5) gray 9- Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
6) yellow/white 10- LED Dimming Signal (instead of purple)
(1)emerald green 7- RAP Fuse Supply Voltage
(2)black w/ white stripe 8- Ground
(3)dark green w/ white stripe 9-VSS (Vehicle Speed Signal)
(4)light green w/ black stripe 10- Ambient Air temp Sensor **
(5)grey 11- Instrument Panel Lamp Fuse Supply Voltage
(6)yellow w/ white stripe 12- LED Dimming Signal (swapped from purple)
(7)(empty) 13- *empty*
(8)orange 14-Battery Positive Voltage
(9)purple 15- Trip computer/nav class 2 serial data link (swapped from yellow)
Thanks
Update: I found another Trip computer in a 1997 Blazer and swapped with no difference in results = (
#58
Cory, getting no differance with a second unit tells me the wiring isnt correct.. Did your Jimmy originally have the overhead display (just temp/compass)? did you try the Chevy Venture pin diagram from the top post, this page? Unless you have the OEM 9pin plug in your harness, you'll have to wire-wrap the last pin of the display to the OBD2 socket.
The unit not turning on at all says there is no power to it.. Swap the wires back to the way they were when it was working. If it works, even for a minute, it's powered and just not getttin data (the -- in place of numbers).. Once it's displaying something, leave those as they are.
Now, run a wire (18-22gauge, well, anything really, but small is ok), from the bottom, last pin on your OBDII socket under the dash to the last pin (#15 is how its labeled) on the display. If you dont have the correct 9pin plug that goes right into the DIC, wrap that data wire around a small, very thin nail/stickpin.. You want to be able to just slip it over that last pin on the display. Once its slipped on that pin, and secured (duct/electrical tape), you can push both button together to get the display to reset (zero out).. start the engine.. you should get data indicating.
The biggest thing is the lack of data flowing to the DIC. Thats the --- you see. go from the OBDII data pin (bottom row, last on right) to the DIC, pin 15 (last pin on right).
My display works except the compass.. but thats ok by me..
The unit not turning on at all says there is no power to it.. Swap the wires back to the way they were when it was working. If it works, even for a minute, it's powered and just not getttin data (the -- in place of numbers).. Once it's displaying something, leave those as they are.
Now, run a wire (18-22gauge, well, anything really, but small is ok), from the bottom, last pin on your OBDII socket under the dash to the last pin (#15 is how its labeled) on the display. If you dont have the correct 9pin plug that goes right into the DIC, wrap that data wire around a small, very thin nail/stickpin.. You want to be able to just slip it over that last pin on the display. Once its slipped on that pin, and secured (duct/electrical tape), you can push both button together to get the display to reset (zero out).. start the engine.. you should get data indicating.
The biggest thing is the lack of data flowing to the DIC. Thats the --- you see. go from the OBDII data pin (bottom row, last on right) to the DIC, pin 15 (last pin on right).
My display works except the compass.. but thats ok by me..
Last edited by skygodtj; 06-05-2012 at 05:13 PM.
#59
New Member
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 4

with the 2nd unit I tried, I did so with the original configuration that turns on and has information for about 10 seconds and then goes to --. I tried resetting this morning and that worked out but still after 10 seconds, goes back to --. Are we sure that the 1997 is compatible with 96?
Cory
Cory
#60
with the 2nd unit I tried, I did so with the original configuration that turns on and has information for about 10 seconds and then goes to --. I tried resetting this morning and that worked out but still after 10 seconds, goes back to --. Are we sure that the 1997 is compatible with 96?
Cory
Cory





