Dash tweeter/speaker wiring
#1
Dash tweeter/speaker wiring
Just had a quick question about how these things are wired. I've searched and can't really find a definite answer.
I replaced all four door speakers with 6.5's (98 Jimmy 4 door). I popped off the dash covers and found out I had tweeters. I didn't check the passenger side, but the driver side is wired with a red and a black wire. How are these actually wired into the system? Are they ran in series to the front door speaker or what? Would it be safe to just replace the tweeters with 4x6's (or 4" with speaker adapter) or would they require special wiring to work.
Thanks.
I replaced all four door speakers with 6.5's (98 Jimmy 4 door). I popped off the dash covers and found out I had tweeters. I didn't check the passenger side, but the driver side is wired with a red and a black wire. How are these actually wired into the system? Are they ran in series to the front door speaker or what? Would it be safe to just replace the tweeters with 4x6's (or 4" with speaker adapter) or would they require special wiring to work.
Thanks.
#2
I'm not sure personally but you may get more input if you ask a Moderator to post this in Lighting & Electrical - Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums.
#3
It looks like any audio related threads posted there are moved to the audio/video forum. I posted there but haven't got a response in 2 days and I need to figure this out ASAP. I kind of figured I would have better luck here.
#5
Not sure if you got an answer in the AV forum, but the dash and door speakers are wired in parallel. I believe the stock tweeters and door speakers are both 4-ohm. When wired, in parallel, normally this would be a 2-ohm load, which would not be good if your amp is rated for 4 ohms (like many head units are). GM uses a crossover between the tweeters and door speakers that keeps this at a 4-ohm load. If you replace the tweeters with 4-ohm 4x6 speakers and use the same wires from the tweeters, you'll have a 2-ohm load (assuming the door speakers are also 4-ohm). If your head unit/amp isn't rated for 2-ohm loads, this won't be good for the amp.
I did what sounds like the same thing as what you're thinking. I ditched the stock crossover, which created a 2-ohm load on 2 of the channels going to the amp. But I used an external 4-channel amp that can handle 2-ohms. So I have 6 pairs of 4-ohm speakers connected to the amp; two of those pairs being wired in parallel. More here.
I did what sounds like the same thing as what you're thinking. I ditched the stock crossover, which created a 2-ohm load on 2 of the channels going to the amp. But I used an external 4-channel amp that can handle 2-ohms. So I have 6 pairs of 4-ohm speakers connected to the amp; two of those pairs being wired in parallel. More here.
#6
I don't have an amp yet but will be getting one at some point to sort out this audio situation. I'm not really happy with the sound coming out of my speakers.
Yes, all of my speakers and my HU are 4 ohm rated.
I can wire speakers and a stereo no problem but I have never worked with amps.
I'm trying to find a decent tutorial on exactly how to do this. Would I just keep the front speakers tied together in parallel but run them from the front channel on the amp?
Yes, all of my speakers and my HU are 4 ohm rated.
I can wire speakers and a stereo no problem but I have never worked with amps.
I'm trying to find a decent tutorial on exactly how to do this. Would I just keep the front speakers tied together in parallel but run them from the front channel on the amp?
#7
Yes, you can do that if you have an amp rated for 2 ohms. I left all the stock wiring in place and then ran speaker wires from the amp to where the stock speaker wires come into the dash, behind the head unit. So there's a 2-ohm load on the front channels and a 4-ohm load on the rear channels. I didn't know squat when I did my system, but there's a lot of good info out in cyberland.
#9
For speaker wires, as much as you want.
Power really only becomes an issue in supplying current to the amp. I used some relatively thick wires from the battery to my 4-channel amp and the power amp for my sub. But the stock speaker wiring, I wouldn't worry about that unless you're running them some longer distances. Using the stock wiring to the speaker locations should be fine.
Power really only becomes an issue in supplying current to the amp. I used some relatively thick wires from the battery to my 4-channel amp and the power amp for my sub. But the stock speaker wiring, I wouldn't worry about that unless you're running them some longer distances. Using the stock wiring to the speaker locations should be fine.
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