I have noticed that. I usually run my HPF at 80-120Hz so i dont beat on them so much and so my doors dont rattle lol. But when i turn it off they sound pretty good but obviously not very good mix with the sub bass. But that brings up a good question, what is considered mid bass? What is good to run the HPF at?

I hope so because im doing mine soon. Just CDL tiles and MLV for now tho.

 

The best place to set the HPF is completely dependent on each individual system and installation. I generally try to set the HPF as low as the speakers will allow me to. Meaning, through listening and tesing, I find the best setting that lets them get as loud as they can without distortion on pretty much everything I play on them. For most speakers it ends up around 80hz usually. In my Jimmy though the HPF on the Bravox's is set to 40hz and even with 125wrms per channel they play loud and clean on everything but the most bass heavy music. They're real troopers, that's for sure. Once the sub is installed I planned on moving the HPF to 60hz since there won't be any reason for them to play that low anymore and it allows them to play even the heaviest bass songs without a problem. On the other hand the CDT COM-626 components my coworker installed in his son's truck wouldn't begin to cooperate with less than 100hz and ended up being crossed at 120hz to play without distorting or tapping the voice coil into the back plate from over excursion. The LPF on the subs had to be set to 100hz to cover the gap.

The point is, you'll have to play with it to find out for sure. It sounds like you have and like I said 80hz is pretty average. Of course any speaker can be ran lower as long as it's not turned up as much it won't have a problem, but that defeats the purpose in most cases. Generally the sub(s) can be play those lost frequencies and everything is fine but the higher the subs play the easier it is to localize them. Car Audio is all about trade offs though and sometimes a person just has to make a hard decision.

Midbass frequencies are loosely, and I do mean LOOSELY defined as anywhere from 50 to 200hz. Some people say it's 50 to 100, others 80-150, some others 100-200. IMHO anywhere in there is pretty much it.

Both those Blazers were fully treated with Second Skin products on the floors, roof, doors, quarter panels, firewall and tailgate. Something in the neighborhood of about 250lbs total in CLD tiles, CCF and MLV. Could barely hear any normal noise from outside the vehicle (i.e. road noise, tires, wind, etc.). Any sounds you did hear seemed to only transfer through the glass of the windows. I know there's some coming through everywhere else too, but it's so well attenuated that it really only sounds like its coming through the glass. Absolutely amazing difference from any untreated vehicle.

 

So much information llol.
now if I get those components you posted the link to originally, since they are multi pieced where do you install them? Normal speakers are much more straight forward lol.

 

The easiest for most people is to put the mid in the door and the tweeter in the 4x6 location. Typically the factory uses a steel plate with a tweeter there. Most guys will just remove the factory tweeter from the plate and install the new on there. Hook up the crossovers to the HU speaker outputs and mount them out of sight somewhere. Run a speaker wire from the crossover to the factory speaker wires with the mid connected to them in the doors and run one more speaker wire up inside the dash from the crossover to the new tweeter. Not my way of doing it, but it saves from having to run your own new speaker wires through the weather boot into the doors. I personally prefer running my own wires to each new speaker and forget the use of the factory wires, but that's just me.

Which brings me to the one real drawback of using a component set. There's more things to wire up which will almost always require running your own wires for at least two runs per side, but usually three, one for each part of the component set, six when you do it for each side. It's worth it though.

 

Lots of suggestions here and I'm replying rather late, but having had numerous speakers in my 91 4 door 4x4 I can tell you now the best set up is 6.5" midwoofer in the front door (if you can), tweeters on the dash (firing across or slightly off-axis). Rears, don't bother with them personally. Two 10" Peerless subs (350 rms total). All controlled by a Pioneer 80PRS mainly for time alignment, 16 band EQ, & 3-way crossover. All powered by a simple 5 channel amp. That is the best and simplest way to reach better than average sound in these trucks (albeit the amount & size of subs is variable) without a ton of electronics. Coaxials are okay, but having reflections off the dash & windshield is hell to deal with. A simple tweeter up top to raise the sound stage with midrange in the doors running around 80-100hz and up to where the tweeter takes over is ideal.


Normally I run raw drivers instead of prefab component sets due to higher quality for the same or less cost, but if I had to choose the easiest to get great quality sound from I would opt for JBL except the P series. The surrounds are known to fail (separate from the cone). Step up to the MS-62C and they are of higher quality than most sets for that price range ($180). For lesser cost and almost as good as performance go with the GTO series.