Hole for amp wire in firewall?
#1
Hole for amp wire in firewall?
Anyone know a good place to run an amp wire through the firewall? currently have one carefully placed through the door jam... kinda wanna fix this issue im sure it will be fine but would like to do a proper job. and ideas? pictures would be great!
#2
Depends on what gauge. I hear you can run up to 4 gauge through the grommet on the driver's side, just cut a little slit and pass it through. But with my 0 gauge, I just ran it down the frame on the passenger side and drilled a large hole in the floor in the back and put a grommet in it and came up there :P But 0 gauge is always going to be more difficult to route lol
#4
THAT'S what I was thinking about, not on the driver's side...
#5
I went through the bump in the floor pan that's underneath the rear of the passenger seat with 1/0 and 4 gauge. I didn't have to fight anything that way, the wires followed the frame, and the wires made it under the carpet super easy from that location.
Here's a few pics to illustrate.
Here's where the power wires came up through the bump in the pan under the seat.
Here you can see the power wire lying nicely with the rest.
And here's the entire bundle coming out from under the carpet and making its way over the rear wheel well toward the location of the amp rack.
Here's a few pics to illustrate.
Here's where the power wires came up through the bump in the pan under the seat.
Here you can see the power wire lying nicely with the rest.
And here's the entire bundle coming out from under the carpet and making its way over the rear wheel well toward the location of the amp rack.
Last edited by altoncustomtech; 08-30-2014 at 11:15 AM.
#9
Yes. First of all they're separated by the zip ties throughout the run. Second the need to have them ran separately isn't nearly as critical as it's made out to be.
What brand of wire are you looking at? I used all Knukonceptz in my truck and have used it for quite awhile on my own and vehicles I've done for others with great results and they have great prices.
I'm running a Focal Solid 2 (75wrms x2), a Sundown SAX125.2 (125wrms x2), and a Sundown SAZ-1500 (1500wrms @ 1 ohm). So I'm running ~1900WRMS in the truck at this time. Future upgrades will take that to over 2500WRMS. Honestly I'm not sure if I would NEED those upgrades with the current setup as I didn't check for voltage drop before I installed it all. I went ahead and dropped in a Deka Intimidator AGM in the front, an XS Power XP950 in the rear, and a Singer 250A HO alternator simply so that I would have the ability to run whatever tickled my fancy at any point in the future.
I'm running a Focal Solid 2 (75wrms x2), a Sundown SAX125.2 (125wrms x2), and a Sundown SAZ-1500 (1500wrms @ 1 ohm). So I'm running ~1900WRMS in the truck at this time. Future upgrades will take that to over 2500WRMS. Honestly I'm not sure if I would NEED those upgrades with the current setup as I didn't check for voltage drop before I installed it all. I went ahead and dropped in a Deka Intimidator AGM in the front, an XS Power XP950 in the rear, and a Singer 250A HO alternator simply so that I would have the ability to run whatever tickled my fancy at any point in the future.
#10
What brand of wire are you looking at? I used all Knukonceptz in my truck and have used it for quite awhile on my own and vehicles I've done for others with great results and they have great prices.
I'm running a Focal Solid 2 (75wrms x2), a Sundown SAX125.2 (125wrms x2), and a Sundown SAZ-1500 (1500wrms @ 1 ohm). So I'm running ~1900WRMS in the truck at this time. Future upgrades will take that to over 2500WRMS. Honestly I'm not sure if I would NEED those upgrades with the current setup as I didn't check for voltage drop before I installed it all. I went ahead and dropped in a Deka Intimidator AGM in the front, an XS Power XP950 in the rear, and a Singer 250A HO alternator simply so that I would have the ability to run whatever tickled my fancy at any point in the future.