So I'm getting ready to get rid of my beloved 04 LS. It won't be completely out of my life, giving it to my mother in-law for a while so she has something reliable to get back and forth to work in and carry her grand kids around in since her son (my brother in-law) passed away in February... I've taken the big mud tires off, reverted all the lights back to standard bulbs instead of LED's so if she needs to get a bulb and I'm not available she can pick one up at any parts store, swapped the touch screen double din radio out for a much more simple single din (woman has issues operating a smart phone...), and last weekend I moved my attention to getting rid of the 1200watt dual 12" in a ported box setup and putting something in it that's more "her speed". Something that gives good sound, but doesn't take up a ton of room so the rear cargo area is still usable, and is quickly and easily removable if she needs to lay the seats down for more room.

The solution I came up with was to hide a small 300watt amp in the right rear corner using the storage/hide box I snagged from a Bravada a while back in a junk yard, which takes care of most of the wiring.






You might notice the switch and 12v power outlet too. I have it wired via a relay and a diode to work in two ways. It kicks on with the ignition (like the amp), or can be manually powered on with the switch. She takes her grand kids to a local spring to swim a lot, and I'm going to give her an air pump to keep in the truck, and that outlet will make for a convenient spot to air up floats, bike tires, or even a flat on the Blazer if that ever happens.









The mess of wires stays hidden until it gets under the back seat.




In the end, everything is hidden accept for one little plug, the plug going to the speaker box. For this, I took a cheap 10 foot extension cord and cut it in half. Makes for a good quick disconnect for a speaker lead. Impossible to plug in the wrong way, large enough gauge wire to carry current, just seemed like the perfect solution




The sub and box is just a Kicker Comp 10" in a small sealed box. I wrapped it in black carpet, tossed a grill on it, and even tossed a couple handles on it to make it easy to get in and out of the back if/when it's needed to be moved.










Can be placed pretty much anywhere in any orientation in the back, there's about 6ft of cord to play with. So the possibilities are pretty much endless. Could even have the back seats folded down and still have it plugged in and sat somewhere in the truck lol







It's not going to rock the neighborhood or rattle the windows, but it gives good clean bass where it's needed, and compliments the components I'm leaving in the doors nicely!

 

Neat idea with the extension cord!

 

Hey,where did you run the hit wire from the battery,how did you get it in the vehicle?..
Where on the firewall did you come thru?

 

While I like the idea, having installed many audio systems in my time it drives me insane to see someone use extension cord for power wire in an install.

That being said, you are only running 300 watts so not a huge issue there.

Do you have another fuse under the hood? Its best to put the fuse on the power wire as close to the battery as possible.

Cheers!

 

The extension cord is not the power wire for the amp, it is the wire leading from the amp to the sub.

There is 0 gauge ran from the battery to just under the rear seat where it steps down to 4 gauge there and goes back to the amp. Trust me, I would NEVER use a household extension wire for the power wires for an amp!

And yes, 100 amp fuse under the hood on the 0 gauge wire. Had a 200 amp fuse in it back when I was pushing a 2400 watt amp and a pair of 12"s but figured this little setup didn't need all that lol

 

Okay good. You had me worried for a moment hahah!

 

Um...firewall question?

 

My 0 gauge isn't ran through the firewall, it's ran along the passenger frame rail and comes up through the floor under the rear seat. Drilled a hole, added a grommet, viola










I used an extra fuse block to step it down to 4 gauge





Can't run much more than 4 gauge through the firewall, and the best place to run that is through the grommet that the antenna wire runs through on the passenger side under the dash. And even there I would recommend dabbing clear silicone all over it on both sides when you're done. I ran some wire through there for my switches for my light bars and ended up with a leak... Thought it was a leaky heater core getting my carpet wet; luckily not! Water pretty much poured in when it rained through that grommet until I slathered it with clear silicone...

 

Why did you go from 0 to 4 gauge? instead of running 4 gauge all the way back?

 

I had at one time a 2400 watt amp pushing a pair of 12"s which is why I had the 0 gauge run. I wasn't about to yank out the 0 gauge just to re-run 4 gauge, so I just stepped down the gauge