1994 Bravada in Colorado
I finally got a replacement thread adapter coil and got the brake caliper put back together. I drove it around the block to test it out after doing the brake pads and tie rod ends. It definitely needs an alignment now, but I'm going to wait until after doing the pitman arm before doing that. The steering seems to be tightened up a little bit. Hopefully replacing the pitman arm will get rid of the rest of the play in the wheel.
The brakes work a little bit better, but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, so it's looking like the master cylinder definitely needs to be replaced.
The brakes work a little bit better, but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, so it's looking like the master cylinder definitely needs to be replaced.
Last edited by stevbre1; Dec 15, 2017 at 09:09 PM.
I finally got a replacement thread adapter coil and got the brake caliper put back together. I drove it around the block to test it out after doing the brake pads and tie rod ends. It definitely needs an alignment now, but I'm going to wait until after doing the pitman arm before doing that. The steering seems to be tightened up a little bit. Hopefully replacing the pitman arm will get rid of the rest of the play in the wheel.
The brakes work a little bit better, but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, so it's looking like the master cylinder definitely needs to be replaced.
The brakes work a little bit better, but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, so it's looking like the master cylinder definitely needs to be replaced.
Not sure about the 1st gen Blazers but not all idler arms are created equal. I replaced mine when I realized that I could turn the right tire (as in making a turn) with the left side staying stationary. The arm of it moved up and down. If the replacement (a Moog) doesn't last I'm considering the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. I think the Proforged idler arm is supposed to be good too.
While you are at it, have you checked the idler arm?
Not sure about the 1st gen Blazers but not all idler arms are created equal. I replaced mine when I realized that I could turn the right tire (as in making a turn) with the left side staying stationary. The arm of it moved up and down. If the replacement (a Moog) doesn't last I'm considering the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. I think the Proforged idler arm is supposed to be good too.
Not sure about the 1st gen Blazers but not all idler arms are created equal. I replaced mine when I realized that I could turn the right tire (as in making a turn) with the left side staying stationary. The arm of it moved up and down. If the replacement (a Moog) doesn't last I'm considering the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. I think the Proforged idler arm is supposed to be good too.
I really wish there was a way to convert these to rack and pinion steering. I know there are one or two conversion kits available, but they're at least $1,000. I wish there was a less expensive way to do away with the centerlink, idler arm, pitman arm, and replace it all with a rack and pinion steering box.
I drove it for the first time in over two weeks, but nothing new going on. I still need to get motivated to replace the pitman arm and master cylinder. Once those are done, I can get it aligned and use it as a daily driver. I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace or rebuild the steering box, since I'll have to remove it to replace the pitman arm.
Last edited by 2004 Blazer; Jan 6, 2018 at 10:56 AM.
With a pitman arm puller you do not have to remove the steering box. If you want to upgrade with a rebuild you could opt to get 12.7 : 1 Ratio rebuild here Gear Rebuilds and Upgrades | Lee Power Steering



