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1994 Bravada in Colorado

Old Dec 15, 2017 | 09:02 PM
  #21  
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I finally got a replacement thread adapter coil and got the brake caliper put back together. I drove it around the block to test it out after doing the brake pads and tie rod ends. It definitely needs an alignment now, but I'm going to wait until after doing the pitman arm before doing that. The steering seems to be tightened up a little bit. Hopefully replacing the pitman arm will get rid of the rest of the play in the wheel.
The brakes work a little bit better, but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, so it's looking like the master cylinder definitely needs to be replaced.
 

Last edited by stevbre1; Dec 15, 2017 at 09:09 PM.
Old Dec 15, 2017 | 11:08 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by stevbre1
I finally got a replacement thread adapter coil and got the brake caliper put back together. I drove it around the block to test it out after doing the brake pads and tie rod ends. It definitely needs an alignment now, but I'm going to wait until after doing the pitman arm before doing that. The steering seems to be tightened up a little bit. Hopefully replacing the pitman arm will get rid of the rest of the play in the wheel.
The brakes work a little bit better, but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor, so it's looking like the master cylinder definitely needs to be replaced.
While you are at it, have you checked the idler arm?

Not sure about the 1st gen Blazers but not all idler arms are created equal. I replaced mine when I realized that I could turn the right tire (as in making a turn) with the left side staying stationary. The arm of it moved up and down. If the replacement (a Moog) doesn't last I'm considering the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. I think the Proforged idler arm is supposed to be good too.
 
Old Dec 15, 2017 | 11:44 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by christine_208
While you are at it, have you checked the idler arm?

Not sure about the 1st gen Blazers but not all idler arms are created equal. I replaced mine when I realized that I could turn the right tire (as in making a turn) with the left side staying stationary. The arm of it moved up and down. If the replacement (a Moog) doesn't last I'm considering the 1-ton idler arm upgrade. I think the Proforged idler arm is supposed to be good too.
Yep. That was the first thing I replaced, back in late October or early November. I replaced it with the Moog part, which took me about a week to finish, but I immediately noticed a difference, once it was done. The car didn't seem to wander anymore, although the play in the steering was still there. The ball joints and sway bar end links seem to be okay for now, so if the Pitman arm doesn't fix the problem, then I suppose I'll have to look at replacing the steering box.
 
Old Dec 16, 2017 | 12:22 AM
  #24  
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I really wish there was a way to convert these to rack and pinion steering. I know there are one or two conversion kits available, but they're at least $1,000. I wish there was a less expensive way to do away with the centerlink, idler arm, pitman arm, and replace it all with a rack and pinion steering box.
 
Old Dec 18, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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Holy Bravada! Talk about a nice truck!
 
Old Dec 18, 2017 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by '93BLZR
Holy Bravada! Talk about a nice truck!
Thanks! It’s getting there. I wish it was the same color as your Blazer.
 
Old Dec 18, 2017 | 01:49 PM
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The color on yours is actually really nice. I'm a sucker for clean interiors too. And yours is mint!
 
Old Jan 5, 2018 | 09:18 PM
  #28  
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I drove it for the first time in over two weeks, but nothing new going on. I still need to get motivated to replace the pitman arm and master cylinder. Once those are done, I can get it aligned and use it as a daily driver. I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace or rebuild the steering box, since I'll have to remove it to replace the pitman arm.
 
Old Jan 6, 2018 | 10:54 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by stevbre1
I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace or rebuild the steering box, since I'll have to remove it to replace the pitman arm.
With a pitman arm puller you do not have to remove the steering box. If you want to upgrade with a rebuild you could opt to get 12.7 : 1 Ratio rebuild here http://leepowersteering.com/gear-rebuilds-and-upgrades/
 

Last edited by 2004 Blazer; Jan 6, 2018 at 10:56 AM.
Old Jan 6, 2018 | 03:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 2004 Blazer
With a pitman arm puller you do not have to remove the steering box. If you want to upgrade with a rebuild you could opt to get 12.7 : 1 Ratio rebuild here Gear Rebuilds and Upgrades | Lee Power Steering
Thanks! I'll check them out. If I end up replacing it, it would be worth getting a quicker ratio.
 

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