i cut out that front cross member as the drag link would hit it when flexting. there was no need for it due to adding a crossmember up front for the leaf springs. also i have my drag link going to the passenger side knuckle with a steering arm attached to it so its no where near any thing.

it looks weird how you have it coming in from the back, ive never seen that done make sure its not going to max out and strain that tie rod end or anything on flexing





i got better pictures of it somewhere but im at work on a ancient computer and photobucket is being very slow.

 

No new updates track bar is still rubbing haven't had the time to fix so busy

So I'm getting better mpg with swap so I didn't even try to get good mpg and bet my record with ease I got 15 mpg 215 miles and filled up 14 gallons .... I towed a 4 door blazer on a dolly about 10 miles and did 70 on highway and got 15 mpg very surprise my old record was 214 at 15 gallons

 

So I haven't update in forever but there's been a lot done

So I got the front drive shaft in I used the stock blazer drive shaft it's alittle short but it works ..... But after using 4wd it broken the rubber on the cv joint on transfer case side .... I've heard of using like a silverado one because it's more heavy duty or I can use the wagoneer driveshaft and make t case a fixxed yoke end ... What do you guys think ???

I'm getting moser shafts Monday to make it 6 lug rear finally and have matching rims

I have new longer front brake lines I need to install them

I got a plow for my truck ! I found one on craigslist for 800$ paid $600 it's a Meyers with the e47 pump 7 ft plow it clears my tires on each side by 6 inches which is perfect

Haven't mounted it yet last night I did some frame trimming on the bumper mount to frame and I have to round out a piece on plow mount to fit with kit

Will be uploading a lot of pics in the next days on mobile right now

 

Oh and also I made the truck 3.73 finally in the rear so I have 3.73 front and rear =]

And I installed a scan guage if you know what that is or not
But my truck is getting about 15 16 mpg

 

Wow I'm surprised the stock slip yoke front driveshaft doesnt fall out of the t-case with the solid front axle. lol...

Never heard of using a silverado or wagoneer driveshaft for a SAS... pretty much everyone i know converts to a NP231J fixed front output and yoke and a shortened XJ / Ford Explorer double cardan shaft (basically the same length). I personally run a custom long travel version of the same style double cardan shaft w/ the Jeep fixed output and yoke on my NP233C t-case.

 

guess I see what else works for a driveshaft I really don't feel like taking the transfercase out ..... one website has fixed yokes you can weld on I would trust as it wouldn't get too abused

 

beach day and just a flex by rail road tracks

 

then I scored a plow for $600 off a 1996 jimmy I have a 500ft driveway so it will make my job easier and maybe make some money



the black is rust convertor not paint it was red



had to cut of a half of circle for the tube on the front cross member on the lift kit

 

fully mounted

 

hey guys so its been awhile but plan and simply I f**ked up my blazer I ran it into one big *** pole I messed up the radiator support anything that's near it both fenders and the door are alittle weird now oh the hood and like million alittle things..... I was leaving my girlfriends house and its 1 lane road to two lane there was ice and I nailed pole with my plow off heres some pictures =(