im running the crappy ol 210,000 mile 4.3 in my 93. it can do the job depending on what gear ratio and how big of tires you want to go. im only running a 3.73 ratio and 33s and its about perfect i wouldnt dare go any bigger

 

Ended up reselling the 96 for a decent payout so right now I'm on hold with pretty much everything relating to my Jimmy. It sucks because I had a good momentum going with the build but I'm hopeful it'll all work out in the end. I'm continuously chasing down leads on the Jimmy I have for getting it running and roadworthy so hopefully I'll have something more to add to this thread than just updates on why nothing has been going on.

 

UPDATE:

So after a ton of decision making and planning I officially have a way I'm going with my 4x4. The truck is sitting half taken apart in Oklahoma and due to my lack of pictures, I'm not really too familiar with how everything went back together wiring wise. So, instead of trying to find a direct replacement motor or doing any other swap (SBC/LSx), I've decided to find a Vortec 4.3 engine and run a carb'd intake manifold with an old school carbuerator. I've always been a fan of this method as there's no computer or complicated wiring harness involved in it. I also plan to eliminate the 4WAL box to free up some space in the engine bay. The A/C will also most likely get the boot as well due to the fact that this won't be my daily driver so I can afford to lose things like fuel economy by going carb'd, losing the 4WAL box (bye bye ABS) and A/C. Luckily none of this will effect me in regards to inspections here in Texas as my county is relatively lax on them (if it runs, drives and ain't a hunk of junk, it's good). I also plan to get a new vacuum advance HEI distributor and Holley Fuel Pressure regulator as well. I may have to look into the issue that the V8 guys have with too much fuel pressure (probably run a Corvette style fuel filter, if possible. More research needed).

Furthering on this point, I plan to remove the old motor with the thrown rod, the 4L60E that's behind it (and is supposedly good), and pull the NP233 from it as well and put in some work. Since I'm going carb and eliminating the computer aspect of things, why would I keep a computer controllers transmission?! Luckily, I have a working TH350 in my backyard shed that's begging to be rebuilt with a 4wd output shaft/tailhousing, so I'm hoping to take my 4L60E and TH350 both to a transmission guy around here and kind of say, "Hey, I'm basically giving you this 4L60E that works, what kind of deal can you give me on rebuilding this TH350 for 4wd?".

Now, onto the NP233. I've done a ton of research and I believe I have an idea on how to change it from the Push-Button to Manual Shift. After reading a ton of information from the Astro guys on this, I believe I can fab up a cable shifted assembly by stripping the Push-Button's motor and pulling the gear from it, cutting it to have the small section that mates to the shaft sticking out of the transfer case, and have it welded onto a thick metal strip that will act as an arm/lever. After this, I'll install a cable at the end of it and have a bracket fabbed up to mate to the NP233 standard bolt holes to hold the cable in place to make adjustments. Then it's just running the cable into the cab which I plan to run to the center where the front of the center console went. This isn't the only center console based shifter I plan on having as I also plan to run a Lokar floor mounted shifter for the TH350 and get rid of the steering column shifter. This should also alleviate any issues when I do the suspension/body lift after getting it running (yes, I'm aware I'll need to adjust my cables to both transmission/transfer case after the body lift lol).

After that, it's a matter of getting everything else wired in. Depending on how the install goes, I may also run an electric fan setup as well (steal a page from the V8 guys book on wiring in Taurus fans?), and I also plan to run true full length headers which I found on Summit for $240 picked up at our new Summit store here in Arlington. Rewiring everything for alternator/distributor/starter shouldn't be near as hard as getting the wiring right for the new motor.

Now that I have a plan, I'm bumming my buddy's engine lift and plan to have the motor/transmission/transfer case out by this weekend and start sending parts off to the shops sometime after that. This project still won't have near as much momentum as it did when it started due to the fact that the truck is still located in Oklahoma, but once the truck is running and street legal it will be coming back to Texas where I continue to do more fun stuff such as the body lift and suspension lift.

So, hopefully after this weekend I have some more pictures to give to you guys. This isn't going to be easy, but I'm really looking forward to it.

 

Well, I'm back guys. It's been a really crazy past seven months. I've had a ton of personal stuff happen and a lot of other things finally come through for me. I've recently moved away from where I was living so I no longer have to worry about the city giving me any issues. I also had an invite from a family member closer to me to bring my truck back into Texas so I can start working on it again closer to home. Another fun thing is I also just recently purchased a 1991 Chevrolet C1500 and plan to use it as my dedicated tow rig/tool truck. It's been hell trying to get all of this lined up but hopefully within the next few months I can bring you guys some updates. Now that I have two other vehicles I can get wild and crazy with this poor thing. The extensive rust damage and lack of motivation for a full rebuild is telling me I'm probably going to end up chopping it up a bit. Should be an interesting build over the coming months/next year. Also found out that I can get long blocks from my local Pick N Pull for about $180, which means a carb'd 4.3 Vortec 4wd toy isn't out of the question just yet. But for now, my main focus is getting the C1500 refreshed and ready for work. And of course, getting my money right. $$$$$

In the meantime, feel free to check out the progress I've been making on the both the Mazda and C1500. I have links in my signature to all of them. Can't wait to bring you guys more news!

 

Look into the throttle body injection runs between 6-8 psi vice the fuel injected which I want to say is around 12. Should run off your stock fuel pump.