Nice idea.
Had to wire in my trailer package. Spliced it in the rear under the carpet of the trunk and put a splice box into the left rear fender. Then opened the OEM cabling and taped my additional wiring in.
Splices in the inside of the truck, so no worries about corroding joints and nothing visible from the underside.

 

Ah. That is the way it should be. I try to have the least amount of stuff visible when i do stuff. Hopefully i will be able to wire it up and make it work. Just have to buy the relay and the rocker switch and get a spot for the switch. Tested the lights out with my computer supply and they seem pretty bright.

 

So a couple days ago i finally wired in my rock lights. i am pretty good with basic electrical principles so by looking at the circuit diagrams in the factory gm manuals for it, i figured it was probably ground switched. i plugged the power for the lights in and they stayed on all the time, i figured i needed a relay. that was the only way i could see to have every interior light work as it should. seeing as how these lights would be subjected to all sorts of awful weather conditions, i used no butt connectors and adhesive lined shrink wrap when i covered my sodder joints so it sealed itself.

little teaser photo:



Here is what i did:
i previously said i tapped the power for the left floor pan courtesy light. i used a splice connector to tap into it. rather than take the splice connector out when i found out it was always hot. i used that as power to the rock lights. see the pic below for these wires. orange wire is hot.

i used another splice connector to tap the ground to the courtesy light. this is the circuit i used to activate the relay. white wire was ground.



i used an add a circuit to tap the illumination fuse which powers the whole circuit, to get power for the relay. this way i know that the circuit will always be hot. but it is not active until something closes a ground in the circuit. i ran the wire through the small crack around the fuse panel through the back of the dash so you never see it.



finally i ran a single wire to each rock light so they each had their own power. i grounded each light off their own bracket so there is only one wire basically going to each ground light.

here is a technical list for the relay:
Pin 30: spliced to the power side of that courtesy light. (always hot)
Pin 86: connected this to the ground side of the courtesy light(when this ground is connected, the relay energizes)
Pin 85: connected to the add a circuit in fuse box. Plugged into illumination fuse slot. (always hot)
pin
Pin 87: connected to the power wire for the driver's side rock light(black wire you see going through parking brake grommet)
__________________________________________________ ___________
i used an old ford relay i had in my garage and bought some wiring. the lights i used are Eagle Eye 9w rock lights i bought off amazon. dirt cheap.



right now i have one on each side but may do 2 on each side. they are both under the front door by the front body mount. there was already a hole in a bracket attached to the mount on the driver's side so i used that.

i made my brackets out of stainless steel i had left over from when i did my front LED bars. pretty simple. once i got done drilling both the holes while it was flat, i used 2 pairs of vice grips and bent it to the angle i wanted.

i ran the power wire for them through the parking dispute grommet. i found a very thin piece of straight metal and taped the wire to it and tried to run it through a few times. around the 5th time i finally got it. then i just pulled whatever wire i needed through from the interior.
here is the wire:


i left myself about 6 inches of wire from each power wire on each side and zip tied it to something that did not move to secure it. this way if i decide i want more, i have extra wire to do it. i ran a hot wire along both sides of the frame. i used a splice connector to tap the power for the lights off this wire. i used a couple zip ties to coil up any wire i didnt need and secure it to the top of the frame.
here is the driver's side when it was done:



here are my 2 brackets. because i didn't have the bracket on the passenger side, that one had to be a bit longer:



passenger side bracket



driver's side bracket

i used black wire for the main hot wire which powers the driver's side rock light. i used a red wire to run from that main hot wire, up through a opening in the wheel well, and then along the top of the firewall.

i came up with the idea to use some string and i taped 2 pennys to the bottom of it to make it naturally want to go down. i lowered the string through this area which has a crack that comes out right behind the wheel well. i did this on both sides although the passenger side was harder.
here is the spot:

because there is already a bunch of wires here it blends right in. i had already run a hot wire to the high speed blower relay last summer because for some reason, the wire which is the constant hot for the relay wasn't hot anymore.

Rather then tear apart the dash because the wire disappeared. i just ran a hot wire from the distribution block on the driver's side fender. i had already used some leftover electrical conduit and electrical tape to clean it up. you would never know.

i ran the wire through next to that hot wire through the electrical conduit and under the weather stripping at the top of the firewall. i ran it over the side of the blower motor and attached it to the string i had pulled through. overall, you would never know that wire was not factory.
Find the wire:

the wire before i cleaned it up:

this is where the power wire (red wire) came out on the driver's side. kind of over top of the wheel well.

the passenger side bracket had to be bolted to the side of the front body mount. so i had to go against all my principles and drill a very small hole in the frame on the side of the mount bracket.

here are the wires for the passenger side ready to be soddered and spliced:



passenger side, led bracket is hanging down. red wire is the power wire ready to be spliced into.

unfortunately i just realized i don't have any pics of the passenger side light installed but here is the light in action after it was done:



still have to bend the bracket a little but to get more coverage towards the back of the car but that is how it sits as of right now.

the lights come on whenever the interior lights come on. they come on and stay on with the dome light when you use the key-less entry and come on when you open or close the door. i think they look really cool. if you wanted to toggle them on and off, you would use the interior light dimmer switch. overall a cheap mod and a clean install as long as you have some time and take your time.

As always, if any of you have any questions, feel free to ask me. i will post pictures of the passenger side light when it stops raining. i am still active on the forum. have a great day guys!

 

Nice LED install!

 

Thanks! I think it came out looking nice😊

 

Another job well done!!

 

Nice work.

Needs a bit of rust remover here and there thou.
...that will keep it alive longer...

 

Thanks Lefet!

And yeh error_401, this blazer is nearly 100% rust free. I painted the frame more than 2 years ago with rustoleum semi gloss black paint. Most of brown crap is just dirt. I could clean it with a wet paper towel and it would come out looking pretty good. Im thinking soon, maybe this summer, ill paint it with bedliner like i have everything else

it still hadnt stopped pouring down rain so no pic of the passenger side light. But as soon as it does, you will see a picture of it.

 

As promised, pics of the passenger side rock light.

In other news, the water pump started leaking a few days ago. Put a new water pump in it and a new lower radiator hose while i was at it.
Dont have a picture of the new one in it. But we bought the heavy duty one from advanced auto. We painted black so it looked factory. It was a good install. Doesnt leak anymore

 

Nice fix.

My old stuff is still holding together. Hopefully it will until about next year when the engine and transmission should be ready. This year hopefully it is Alfa Romeo time. I will need the Blazer to tow the Alfa around.

I have some rust spots on the frame as well. Need to address that once the engine and trans are out.
Nice to see rust free Blazers